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Gear Selector Switch Wiring
- wynlaidig
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- 1748 S
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JIM.OBRIEN wrote: That's a repop not an original.
Jim are you telling us this switch is a repop or the diagram is a repop? I had to ask to be clear. I'm not understanding what you are referencing the repop to...I will have to look at my original switch to see if I can determine the differences.
Gary Parsons
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- johnmereness
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JMM
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- 1748 S
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- alsancle
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Thanks. I saw that and sent him a PM yesterday. I'll buy one regardless. It looks like our car already has a non original replacement of some sort.JIM.OBRIEN wrote: If the problem is the interlock switch on the cross shift change it out to a modern micro switches. They are a lot easier to set up. Pat Leahy has them.
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- 1748 S
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- Terry Cockerell
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Are you intending on using this original switch?
T cockerell
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- 1748 S
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- Terry Cockerell
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Thanks for your supportive comments. It is a hell of a job restoring a Cord from the ground up after you have taken it all apart. As the gear change mechanism worked so well after sorting out the initial bugs I didn't want to get into more trouble with the switch as I still have a long way to go with everything else. The car is coming along nicely. It must have looked like a space ship in 1936 with its original Cadet grey paint shining in the daylight.
My loom is in one piece so I will take your advice Jim and feed it up through the steering column outer tube before doing any soldering up.
One step at a time.
The last picture shows the Connersville City Flag which the Mayor of Connersville gave me during the Mini Meet we had there before Auburn.
Cheers,
Terry
T cockerell
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- 1748 S
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Gary is right, this is a "newer" switch. Your wires look like they are in good condition and appear to be modern plastic insulated wires with the cloth over them. That's a good point for leaving the wires in place. However if your splices are located in the steering column tube you probably won't get all the wires back in there. It's hard enough to get all the wires in there.
Soldering in the new wires is not too difficult. With this piece you do have to watch the temperature because you can melt the plastic. It makes the job a lot easier if you lay out the wires in the steering column in the same layout of where they need to go in the switch. That way the wires come straight out of the column and go straight into their proper location on the switch - just like it's shown in your photos.
If you have a new one piece harness you have to feed the wires into the column from the bottom and then solder on the switch. This is where you have to feed them into the column in the proper order. If you have the two piece harness you can solder the switch on first, then feed the wires down the steering column and then solder on the connecting plug after the wires are in place.
Personally I would solder the wires onto the switch and not put splices in the wires. The splices are just one more potential problem area.
Good luck with it!
Jim
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- Terry Cockerell
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I think I will splice the cables lower down. It will be safer that way.
T cockerell
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- Terry Cockerell
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Some of the cable ends were pushed into the plastic housing when originally put together. These are the areas I do not wish to disturb. I guess the safest route is to splice the cables lower down and staggered as suggested by Michael to keep the overall diameter down. I will look into getting outer cable shrink covers.
Thanks guys for your help and suggestions.
T cockerell
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- Michael R
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(pic shows my 49 Packard)
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- Terry Cockerell
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I would appreciate some guidance from others who have tackled this trick job .......................... help.
T cockerell
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