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Gear Selector Switch Wiring
- alsancle
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- 1748 S
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Rileypu29 wrote: I just purchased two water pump rebuild kits from Cathy Portz who is indeed still selling Henry's parts. There is a website for ordering. Cathy is great to work with and shipped the parts very quickly. I highly recommend buying parts from her.
Bill Kastanis
Thanks for the information. I'm located about 3 hours south of this. I really want to walk thru the Henry shop just to see what he was doing and look at the tooling. Maybe purchase something I "can't do without"... Tell the wife I just need one more part....
Gary Parsons
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- Rileypu29
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Bill Kastanis
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- alsancle
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Gary Parsons
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- alsancle
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I told my dad we are taking the steering tube out and he was disagreeing since he didn't have to do it last time, and I pointed out that last time he didn't replace the harness.
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Originally there was a cardboard "washer" the wires ran thru that was located at the base of the shift arm (at the steering column). Your best bet is to pull in two or three wires at a time. I always use a string to pull in the wires and ALWAYS have a spare pull string in the column.
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- Terry Cockerell
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Make sure you have the inside grommet fitted to the column tube as shown in the attached picture.
T cockerell
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- Terry Cockerell
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You must first slide the ten wires up through the steering column cover tube and solder the new switch in position. Run your tests with the column out of the car. Eventually when installing the cover tube complete with wiring make sure the inside grommet is in position. Pass the wiring through the firewall then slide the cover tube down the steering column. To refit the engine side grommet you will have to cut it radially as it won't fit over the wires coming out at the bottom of the cover tube. Place the grommet in position and superglue the cut joint. This procedure worked for me.
T cockerell
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- alsancle
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Bad idea?
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- alsancle
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The trade-offs I see are:
1. A single harness eliminates any issues with the plug.
2. A single harness eliminates me trying to solder the connections on to the plug
3. A single harness means you can't pull just the selection harness out to work on the switch.
4. A single harness means more work with installing the front 1/2 of the harness.
Final question, if I go with just the selection harness, is anyone making the plug or half the plug?
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- Terry Cockerell
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T cockerell
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- alsancle
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phpstack-1081784-3880776.cloudwaysapps.c...-if-i-have-a-problem
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- rhauser
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Robert l Hauser
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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If the end of the snap ring is not near the notch try and a use the screwdriver to move it around so it is near the notch.
This is one job I would rather be lucky then good. I have had this job take me as long as 4 hours to get the ring out. I've done it enough lately I can get it out in less then 5 mins.
If you are having problems call me
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- 1748 S
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gARY pARSONS
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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AJ - the housing has a keyway cut in it and the switch has a square on it so it will only go in one way.
The original snap ring was just a circular piece. This makes it hard to get out. There are updated ones out there that have a ring on the one end that makes it easy to grab and remove the snap ring.
My next article for the Newsletter will be on this subject. Will also include testing the switch to make sure it will work in the car.
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- uconn_1965
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- alsancle
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I will say that things are pretty tight. My question is probably simple, is there a snap ring holding the switch body inside the shifter housing? And can the body only go in one way?
thanks,
A.J.
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- Terry Cockerell
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The job could be done with the steering column tube cover in position but it would be more tedious. Having it all out of the car makes it a lot easier to work on as you can rotate the tube cover when soldering the various connections around the switch.
T cockerell
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- Terry Cockerell
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Laying the cables out correctly is the key to success. The cables have to be slid into the steering column cover tube and pulled through from the bottom up to the switch . I had the cover tube out of the car with the cabin side firewall grommet in position. After carefully removing the old cables and soldering the new ones in position the switch was fitted to the cover tube. Eventually the new loom with a dummy 10 pin plug was fed through the firewall and the cover tube assembly slid down over the steering column and fixed in place. As you cannot slide the firewall side grommet over the cover tube with the cables in place, I simply made a cut through the grommet, positioned it and super glued the joint.
The gear selector switch has some contacts that are a tight fit in the plastic housing. In some reference material it said an ice pick can be used to push the contacts out. I figured pushing a point into soft material may make things worse. I cut the wires off flush with the plastic housing and used a small round flat ended punch to push them out. This worked well.
One day in the not too distant future I hope to be able to change gears again, when the restoration is finished.
One final note, I painted the insides of the switch gate black as it didn't look right in raw metal colours.
T cockerell
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- mikespeed35
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CORDiallyMike
Mike Huffman
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- STEVEN.KUIPER
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essentially a rubber-like black tube(colors are available) that you slide back one of the wires before you soldier them. after soldiering is done slide it over the joint & heat lightly . then it shrinks down to size.
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- 1748 S
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JIM.OBRIEN wrote: That's a repop not an original.
Jim are you telling us this switch is a repop or the diagram is a repop? I had to ask to be clear. I'm not understanding what you are referencing the repop to...I will have to look at my original switch to see if I can determine the differences.
Gary Parsons
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Thanks. I saw that and sent him a PM yesterday. I'll buy one regardless. It looks like our car already has a non original replacement of some sort.JIM.OBRIEN wrote: If the problem is the interlock switch on the cross shift change it out to a modern micro switches. They are a lot easier to set up. Pat Leahy has them.
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- Terry Cockerell
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Are you intending on using this original switch?
T cockerell
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- Terry Cockerell
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Thanks for your supportive comments. It is a hell of a job restoring a Cord from the ground up after you have taken it all apart. As the gear change mechanism worked so well after sorting out the initial bugs I didn't want to get into more trouble with the switch as I still have a long way to go with everything else. The car is coming along nicely. It must have looked like a space ship in 1936 with its original Cadet grey paint shining in the daylight.
My loom is in one piece so I will take your advice Jim and feed it up through the steering column outer tube before doing any soldering up.
One step at a time.
The last picture shows the Connersville City Flag which the Mayor of Connersville gave me during the Mini Meet we had there before Auburn.
Cheers,
Terry
T cockerell
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- 1748 S
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Gary is right, this is a "newer" switch. Your wires look like they are in good condition and appear to be modern plastic insulated wires with the cloth over them. That's a good point for leaving the wires in place. However if your splices are located in the steering column tube you probably won't get all the wires back in there. It's hard enough to get all the wires in there.
Soldering in the new wires is not too difficult. With this piece you do have to watch the temperature because you can melt the plastic. It makes the job a lot easier if you lay out the wires in the steering column in the same layout of where they need to go in the switch. That way the wires come straight out of the column and go straight into their proper location on the switch - just like it's shown in your photos.
If you have a new one piece harness you have to feed the wires into the column from the bottom and then solder on the switch. This is where you have to feed them into the column in the proper order. If you have the two piece harness you can solder the switch on first, then feed the wires down the steering column and then solder on the connecting plug after the wires are in place.
Personally I would solder the wires onto the switch and not put splices in the wires. The splices are just one more potential problem area.
Good luck with it!
Jim
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- Terry Cockerell
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I think I will splice the cables lower down. It will be safer that way.
T cockerell
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