Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums

  • Terry Cockerell
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27 Oct 2016 02:42 #31865 by Terry Cockerell
Terry Cockerell created the topic: Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums
With the wheels balanced I found that I had smooth steering up to 60 mph. Then vibration started to set in around 65 mph and above. I had been advised to get the brake drums balanced.
There are not many places where I live in Australia who can handle balancing the drums.
On a wheel balancing machine we found that one drum was out by 65 grams or about 2.7 ounces. Even the wheel balancing operator was surprised.
We added adhesive weights for the trial on the outside of the rim. These will be removed.
As the drums are composite with a cast iron rim and a steel flange I would assume we could only weld or bolt weights to the flange as long as they clear the wheel rim and brakes.

I would appreciate any comments or guidance as how to do this job properly.
I don't intend to drive the car much above 60 mph but where there is out of balance forces working I would rather eliminate them.
Thanks,
Terry Cockerell

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28 Oct 2016 02:49 #31869 by john mccall
john mccall replied the topic: Re: Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums
See if you can find someone with an old fashion balancer where you jack up the wheel and let it down on the machine which spins the whole wheel, tire, hub and hubcap while everything is mounted on the car. Then add wheel weights accordingly. Someone who collects antique garage equipment might still have one. A local Stude guy nearby had one but it went in an auction when he died so I can't tell you who manufactured this type of balancer. Check the internet.
OR
If you can mount the hub on your guy's balancer, can you mount the hub with the wheel/tire attached? If you can, add required weights to the wheel to account for the combined imbalance and make sure you mount the wheel in the same position on the hub when everything is put back on the car.

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28 Oct 2016 03:52 #31870 by mikespeed35
mikespeed35 replied the topic: Re: Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums
Be sure the brake drums are the problem before going to all this trouble. There are many other things that can cause vibration in the front end. I am speaking of cars in general, not being knowledgeable specifically on 810/12 Cords.
Cordially Mike

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28 Oct 2016 04:43 #31871 by Terry Cockerell
Terry Cockerell replied the topic: Re: Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums
Thanks for your prompt replies.
I had a look on the Internet and found a simple procedure for statically balancing the drums which I think will give the desired results I need. I had read that others with different makes of cars had the same problem and used this technique with good results.
Each drum needs to be checked on a balancing machine. The weight to be added noted and the position marked.
Adhesive weights are to be used. After checking the available gap or space between the inside of the wheel rim and the drum, a suitable size steel weight can be fabricated checking the weight and allowing for the welds, then welding it to the brake drum steel flange.
The amperage must be kept well below 100 amps to avoid causing distortion.
The next step is to check each drum again on the wheel balancing machine.
I would rather do the drums and wheels individually as the wheels can be rotated for wear and there is always the chance of a flat tyre along the way.
Balancing a wheel and brake drum as an assembly has its limitations as mentioned.
Regards,
Terry Cockerell

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  • balinwire
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30 Oct 2016 18:13 #31879 by balinwire
balinwire replied the topic: Re: Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums
When the Cords were built speeds were much lower and bubble balancing would have to do. In the fifties I remember a shop balancing my fathers car with a contraption that bolted on the wheel and there was a large wheel spinner, they told me to back off as I witnessed the car wheel spin to 60 MPH at a standstill. These balancers evolved into strobe balancers but were surpassed by modern wheel balancers. That is fine on modern cars but our old Cords, several cast iron drums, rivets, Rezeppa or Bendix joints and heavy axles, make up the steering. There was a lot of unbalanced metal in motion.
I remembered the old garage who balanced Dads car and went on a mission to find something similar, there were some with cabinets and lots of accessories but I found this bolt on adapter and a small spinner that work fine for the front drive Cord. The rear wheels could be bubble balanced. Finding instructions is another thing, none available. the closest I could find was a description of a fellow whos dad lost a finger on the spinning balancer, very dangerous in a shop, so plenty of warning.
I took this one apart and could see two weights spin in an orbit setting the scale to the light side of the wheel assembly where extra weight would be added and re-spun till correct balance was achieved. I am sure a lot of the Cord front shimmy was because more of an unbalanced condition rather than sloppy bearings etc. On the Cord you would not need the wheel spinner, jack up the front end and let her Lycoming drive the wheel spinner balancer.






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01 Nov 2016 02:33 #31883 by mikespeed35
mikespeed35 replied the topic: Re: Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums
I don't know about a Cord 810/12 but if you jack up the front of a L-29 and run the car you can destroy the inner CV cups that slide in and out of the inner joints.
Cordially Mike

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