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Shifting fun ............
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Thanks for the picture.
I do get quick shifts while in pre select. Select gear, clutch in,clutch out,no problem.
Getting Cord to shift the same way in manual mode is what is bugging me.
Are you running a shortened trans cover? Nice setup.
Frank
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- 810cord
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1936 Cord 810
1927 Cadillac 314 Phaeton
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- Terry Cockerell
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Do Not go from any gear back to first as you can really do some damage to first gear.
You must be just about stopped with the wheels on their last movement before selecting first gear.
As previously mentioned I had fitted micro switches to the front of the box so that I would know when first or reverse has been engauged.
When depressing the clutch I always hold it for two to three seconds to allow time for the gear change to be made. No quick shifts at all, you will only do expensive damage.
Cheers,
Terry
T cockerell
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With the new switch I have found that in pre select you can gain some "shift time"by setting the clutch switch to close at clutch about half in.
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- ilikescars
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- 1748 S
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Vacuum happens when the throttle plates are closed. Say you are revved up to around 2800 rpm and you want to shift. You preselect the gear you want. Let off the throttle peddle. As the engine slows down the rpms you are creating the most vacuum you can make in said engine. It won't be 29 inches of mercury but it will be all it can possibly be. Then you press in the clutch and all the magic happens with the electrical switches and the vacuum solenoids.mikespeed35 wrote: The "goose" decreases vacuum.
Cordially Mike
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- mikespeed35
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Cordially Mike
Mike Huffman
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- ilikescars
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I've done a couple of tests. With the engine running,wheels off the floor, car in neutral,foot off the clutch.
Selector switch to second gear,
depress clutch, instant vacuum approx 7,5 psi.
Off clutch, instant atmospheric pressure.
Any other gear, same result.
Looks like the vacuum block is doing ok ?
Thanks for the pictures
Frank
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I would appreciate a couple of pictures of the solenoid block.
Thanks
Frank
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- 1748 S
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The woodruff key,cross shaft and front cover problem is a nice one!
All adjustments on switches are ok.
Problem does not seem to be electrical.
Does anyone know how much vacuum to expect.
Is 7.5 psi in the ball park?
Most vacuum problems I've read about mention to much vacuum, but no hard numbers.
Thanks
Frank
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- Terry Cockerell
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I have read it is ok to run the engine for short periods with the gear selector in neutral. It is not recommended to run the engine for beyond 10 to 15 minutes while in neutral. If necessary jack up one wheel and let it spin.
T cockerell
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- 1748 S
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I agree we need to run the cars for the trans oil to circulate but... My trans NEVER had oil in it from sometime before 1961 when my father purchased the car as a basket case. I recall sometime in the late 1967 year dad and I with a friend reassembled the car to move it home from a business storage barn that was needed for other stuff. I'm not sure but I recall I was sitting in the car when it was towed home. It was somehow shifted into gear and I held my foot of the clutch depressed. the trip was about 12 miles. Remember no oil in the trans nor the differential either. Then in 1974 the car was trailered to my home shop garage. Engine was smei rebuilt so I got it rewired and started the engine. Ran it for maybe an hour ... I fixed the brakes and wife and I drove it around our block.. No mufflers but had the down pipes. Sure did rumble. I probably ran this engine for 4 or 5 hours over the next we years. Remember no oil in trans. One time I had the trans cover off and actually shifted thru all gears. Still not oil. Now forwards to 2014 when I discovered the wheels MUST turn for oil to lube the trans... Well still no oil in trans. I opened the trans expecting to see many burned bearings and bushings.. Nope.. Not a one. I did find some new gears and sadly 2nd 3rd synchro had no springs or balls in it. they were not in the bottom of the trans either. They NEVER got installed. So all this worry about no oil when the wheels are not moving.. I completely agree. I just can't explain why my trans was not burned up from no oil but several hours of spinning. Maybe it was because no pressure was placed on the bushings or gears or bearings.
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- Terry Cockerell
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Eventually I traced it down to the fit of the woodruff key in the "dog bone" on the selector cross shaft. Things could move slightly when it got warm enough. I was astounded that having the scoop fitted could make the difference. Just try checking one item at a time.
Occasionally I would still crunch first or reverse if I was not careful so I installed some micro switches at the front of the gearbox and lights under the dash to let the driver know when 1st or reverse had been selected correctly. Another guy out here fitted micro switches to all gears as well as lights in a little box under the dash, so that you know where you are all of the time.
Cheers,
Terry Cockerell
Australia
T cockerell
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- Tom_Parkinson
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Leaving the transmission in neutral when parked in the garage also allows you more easily to push the car out to where you can work on it when the shift won't shift!
Remember--never leave the transmission in neutral and spinning while idling the engine, such as at a traffic light. That will burn up parts inside that require lubrication from the manual transmission pump which only pumps when the axles are turning. Keep the clutch on the floor when idling.
--Tom
PS: I recently got a freebie cap from Hagerty Insurance that is embroidered "Shift Happens." I have seriously considered adding additional embroidery: "Sometimes!"
With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.
Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International
See pix of 1509A here: mbcurl.me/YCSE
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- 1748 S
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Cord shifts perfectly in pre select mode.
Never misses a shift.
Getting Cord to shift in manual mode is a different story.
Shifting 4-3 3-4 will not work 3 out of 5 times.
Depressing the clutch twice will get me a perfect shift.
Cord's voltage is 13.8
New selector switch, switch cap,pencil, wiring harness,interlock switch,clutch switch.
All adjusted by the book.
Connections checked with the light box.
According to the light box, Cord's shifts are perfect.
(The Cord Transmission Simulator was /is a great help in understanding how the system works )
Vacuum cylinders rebuilt , no leakage.
Solenoids, rebuilt, I get a immediate vacuum drop to zero on letting up on the clutch, so no leakage there.
Tested vacuum, 7.5 psi on both sides of the main shift cylinder.
I'm stumped.I think I tested everything, but cannot see the reason for the difference in pre select and manual mode.
Thanks for your time
Frank
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