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812 Cord Starter Internals

  • 1748 S
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18 Sep 2016 18:21 #31742 by 1748 S
Replied by 1748 S on topic Re: 812 Cord Starter Internals
Heres some pics of the finished starter. Thanks for the nice comments of my color choice. It's a gloss black. Nothing more than that. And for the great tips about having a bare metal to metal contact between the case and the bellhousing. This was my intent all along but its nice to see others with the same idea.

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  • johnmereness
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18 Sep 2016 02:30 #31741 by johnmereness
Replied by johnmereness on topic Re: 812 Cord Starter Internals
I like the look of the black you have chosen - very authentic

JMM

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18 Sep 2016 02:25 #31740 by johnmereness
Replied by johnmereness on topic Re: 812 Cord Starter Internals
Think bare metal to bare metal to engine block regarding case - most problems I see with hard starting restored cars is too much paint on electrical parts and not enough care taken with grounding. Curt Schulze also told me of the benefits of new rivets (I have been using blind head bolts that look like rivets) for the brush holder mounts - just did my first Auburn started and while not yet tested I am looking forward to seeing if any improvement.

JMM

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16 Sep 2016 23:22 #31725 by 1748 S
Replied by 1748 S on topic Re: 812 Cord Starter Internals
Today I got my starter back from the rebuilder. I purchased all the bushings, brushes and other parts from Stan some time back. Only reason I did not rebuild it myself is I also purchased the high torque case winding coils. Getting them out was easy but the work needed to soldier the new leads into the case was a little beyond my skill level. So it is in the paint shop hanging with a few coats of black on it. May leave it or add a few more coats tomorrow. It wont be a Pebble Beach finish but it will be close. Pics coming later.

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04 Aug 2016 21:09 #31463 by 1748 S
812 Cord Starter Internals was created by 1748 S
I took apart my starter to check what it looked like and to rebuild if needed. I was able about a year ago to purchase a new set of high torque case windings and a few months ago I purchased the 3 bushing set and a set of brushes from Stan. This is what the internals look like. My end cone was difficult to remove but I feel I have fixed that. There is a couple of springs under that drive scheel too so if you choose to take that apart to replace the hidden bushing under that be careful. That wire snap ring is horrible to get off. Then the shaft nut is very tight. If you don't have a special spanner wrench or a way to hold without damaging the rotor I suggest farming the rebuild out. Enjoy the pics.

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