Cord 812 Custom Beverly restoration story

Work in progress.

Front adjust and restoration.

The custom fence was made with a standard model when i have buy the car but need some adjust.

Hood

It may have been wise to have the battery box top too think (if that was your thought) if it will still work in relation to the seat (most modern batteries seem taller than what was originally in an Auburn or Cord). And, too low a box looks awkward when walking up to a car.

And work on the gearbox

new bearings and gaskets

Hood side panels


Before <!-- s:? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt="" title="Confused" /><!-- s:? -->

After

Please see my email
Bill

New battery cover

I think I made a little too thick.

Thank you for your help Red Brick <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: --> but Tim Gilmartin just sent me photos with battery covers dimensions, thanks to him,i can now make the part for my car.

I live in West of France near Rennes city,if a ACD enthusiast comes to France he is welcome <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

RubyDS: Regarding the battery box cover, I will try go to my car tonight to document the dimensions for you. There is, however, at least one more dimension you'll want. You can see it on the bottom edge immediately to the right of the left-most bottom screw hole - a slight, flat rise about 1-1/2" long. It must be for a flat, braided grounding wire. Perhaps you will want to add two dimensions to capture the measurement, one before and one after the rise?

Meanwhile, please re-post your picture with these "arrows" and also label each arrow as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 (and 7?). Then I will provide you the measurements for each labeled arrow.

I hope this will help you.

Also, in which city are you doing your work?

Best wishes,
Albert

The Pullmax does stretch the sheet metal a little, but normally not enough, so you have to prestretch where you want the molding, to prevent the sheet metal from shrinking.

Torsten

mikespeed35 wrote: When using the Pullmax to make panels does the tool shrink the panel so you have to figure a oversize dimension or does it simply stretch the metal and no oversizing is required?
Cordially Mike

it depends on the shape of the molding, the Cord floor molding is very flat and it is possible to cut the sheet metal has the right size.
But if the molding is larger must provide oversize.

Cordially

Tom Georgeson wrote: I don't understand why you need someone to measure the cover if you have it?

Hello Tom,

I have not the battery cover,the picture is just an example,with the measure i can reproduce one <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

I don't understand why you need someone to measure the cover if you have it?

When using the Pullmax to make panels does the tool shrink the panel so you have to figure a oversize dimension or does it simply stretch the metal and no oversizing is required?
Cordially Mike

Front floor reproduction

<!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) --> <!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) --> <!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) -->

No one to measure a battery box cover

Someone to measure some dimensions to reproduce the battery cover <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: -->

Thanks for the response <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

For the Battery cover,anyone have possibility to give me the dimensions <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: -->

The tool box does not have a cover. I believe that Stan Gilliland has battery box covers. Thanks for all the pictures. Very interesting.

More job on the front floor <!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) -->

Tool Box Floor

I have one question for the crossmember with the batterry box and tool box:
I do not have the battery cover so I'll make it but there is there a cover on the toolbox <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: --> <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: -->

1748 S wrote: These pictures are fasinating to me. Actually seeing what the body is welded to makes me feel better about the Cords. Having been told for many years our car is a unibody with no frame is not really correct. I clearly can see the "C" channel very simalar to the stub frame. Thatnks for all the great pictures. Why are you choosing to use grey primer instead of original red primer?

Yes,the chassis is welded in the body and the chassis is extended on a custom model.

For the primer the colour is not very important for me,all the car will be painted after.

detail of the extended chassis

Thanks all <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->
Yes Mike,the devil is in the details <!-- s:twisted: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif" alt=":twisted:" title="Twisted Evil" /><!-- s:twisted: -->

There is an article in an recent issue of the ACD Newsletter on a better to install the front bumper spacer. Doing it will secure the front fender better an may avoid damage to the fender. Your Cord is looking good and a great project. Keep it up!

These pictures are fasinating to me. Actually seeing what the body is welded to makes me feel better about the Cords. Having been told for many years our car is a unibody with no frame is not really correct. I clearly can see the "C" channel very simalar to the stub frame. Thatnks for all the great pictures. Why are you choosing to use grey primer instead of original red primer?

The devil is in the details.
Cordially Mike

Metal work is the fun part, in my opinion. All the other little details drive me nuts. Nice job so far!

Mark

Now same work on the right side <!-- s:twisted: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif" alt=":twisted:" title="Twisted Evil" /><!-- s:twisted: -->

Right rocker panel

Rear right fender adjust

For change to the steel work some cast brass fundry

Front bumper spacer and doors dovetail

Left:the original parts and at right reproduction parts

Bolts,nuts and little parts cad plated

HotRodJoe wrote: Maybe it's better you did it yourself after all.

Yes i believe <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

Very good metal work, Ruby! Maybe it's better you did it yourself after all.

I have seen the bumper guards both ways, on my Beverly I like them up, otherwise I look like I am plowing a field with them. Great shots of your metal work

I believe the bumperettes point up, they look better that way, in my opinion. You are doing a lot of work in a very short time, keep up the excellent work.
Pat

I am enjoying your posts !

Testing of rear bumpers, up or down <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: -->

I prefer the bumpers up and you <!-- s:?: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_question.gif" alt=":" title="Question" /><!-- s:?: -->

rear right wing

Rear bumper adjust

Rear wing and trunk adjust

Chassis repair.
How can we let a rusty chassis under a new floor :rolleyes:

I have not the original Aerotherm heater but i have in stock a Eureka Heater NOS 1937-38 <!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) --> so i use this heater.

A few too many holes on this firewall

Some repairs

Heater in place

New tyres 650-16 Whitewall

tractiondk wrote: I know the Georges Irat. It was also made with a Citroen traction avant engine.
A very nice roadster.

The Cord 812 sold at the auction i Denmark, do you know were it is located in France now?

You are doing at fine job with the sheet metal, and have nice machines. Is the Pullmax a P5?

Torsten

Only the last Georges Irat 1938-39 have the Citroen Engine,Georges Irat 34-37 have Ruby engine.

The Cord 812 sold at the auction in Danemark is now in the south of France,i could buy it last year but I did not buy due of the Citroen engine not very glamour <!-- s:? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt="" title="Confused" /><!-- s:? -->

Thanks,glad that you like my work,my Pullmax is a P3

I know the Georges Irat. It was also made with a Citroen traction avant engine.
A very nice roadster.

The Cord 812 sold at the auction i Denmark, do you know were it is located in France now?

You are doing at fine job with the sheet metal, and have nice machines. Is the Pullmax a P5?

Torsten

tractiondk wrote: Bonjour RubyDS (Citroen DS?)

Thanks for your detailed posts about your Cord. You are doing a greath job restoring this car and I am really injoying it.
Please continue.

Do you know how many Cords 810-812 exist in France today?

Torsten

Ruby DS is the name of a french engine,i have a "Georges Irat"roadster 1935 with this engine <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

I know 8 Cord exist in France whose the 812 with citroen engine sold in a museum in denmark.
Only two custom model in France,mine and a 812 custom westchester in a museum.

Bonjour RubyDS (Citroen DS?)

Thanks for your detailed posts about your Cord. You are doing a greath job restoring this car and I am really injoying it.
Please continue.

Do you know how many Cords 810-812 exist in France today?

Torsten

For the radio i have not the radio speaker,i looking for this parts.

If a Cord enthusiast have this part for sale send me a message

New firewall

And i install the radio

First rocker panel

I prefer this rocker panel whithout rust with a design conform to original <!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) -->

Front chassis repair

1748 S wrote: Its so sad to learn someone did not make the correct repairs and now you have more work to do. The damage appears to have been caused by the salt that is applied to roads when they get snow or ice on them. Nothing rots a car faster than road salt. I talk with another clug of truck owners in the east part of the United Satates. They are always working on the salt damage. Here in California we do not salt roads because we do not get the snow or ice on the roads. Lucky us. I tip my hat to you sir for going the extra mile repairing this car. Be proud of what you are doing and please continue posting these great pictures. Everyone enjoys seeing them as much as I do.

Yes, it's sad to see a bad job on a wonderful car.
It's possible that the salt is the origin of rust, only the bottom is damaged.
The previous owner in Minnessota told me that the car was bought by his dad in a a junk yard in Oklahoma, maybe it was into another state before?

pfree3233 wrote: You have a great project, it is going to make a beautiful car when finished with all the corrections you are making. It's always great to have a pullmax for making repair sections. Keep posting pictures of your progress if you would. Thanks for sharing.
Pat

Thanks,yes i want make a beautiful car when finished,which does not see what is to be as beautiful as what it sees.
The Pullmax is a great tool,i also use english whell to make repair sections.

Its so sad to learn someone did not make the correct repairs and now you have more work to do. The damage appears to have been caused by the salt that is applied to roads when they get snow or ice on them. Nothing rots a car faster than road salt. I talk with another clug of truck owners in the east part of the United Satates. They are always working on the salt damage. Here in California we do not salt roads because we do not get the snow or ice on the roads. Lucky us. I tip my hat to you sir for going the extra mile repairing this car. Be proud of what you are doing and please continue posting these great pictures. Everyone enjoys seeing them as much as I do.

You have a great project, it is going to make a beautiful car when finished with all the corrections you are making. It's always great to have a pullmax for making repair sections. Keep posting pictures of your progress if you would. Thanks for sharing.
Pat

Left C pillar

new steel welded on hole and rust

I cut all the damaged part

Floor next to the wheel wheel arch