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Cord 812 Custom Beverly restoration story
- Terry Cockerell
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Try AC Parts in Kansas or Doug Pray in Oklahoma for the missing parts.
T cockerell
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- RubyDS
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one original radiator cap
one tailight glass "cobro" and the clip around the glass
one camshaft nut for the generator pulley
one glass for the rear licence plate light
and the trunk stand (not sure of the correct name) for bustle back model.
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- johnmereness
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Packard's seem to have some sort of express highway from under the car to the headliner - mice must be taught about it as children and put on a quest to find the cars.
I recall taking out a 5 gallon garbage can of mice nests out of a Stutz (and it looked just fine with no interior damage other than car smelled bad and owners had been using it that way) - I was super careful too when cleaning it (known a few people that became sick and had weeks to months of problems from getting into mice nests in cars). The Stutz moved on - not what I want to own in a car (especially on a damp day).
JMM
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- Terry Cockerell
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My original headlining had certainly faded but it was mostly out of the direct sunlight for 80 plus years. Recently while removing the seat coverings which were done in the mid 1970s we found the original material behind the front seat was in quite good condition. I suppose we can live with some fading and hope it will be uniform. The best part is owning one , driving it and sharing it.
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Terry Cockerell wrote: The same colour as my Cord interior.
Have a look at my posting in Restoration Tips for the broadcloth manufacturer J & S Taylor in the UK. Nigel will look after you.
Thanks Terry for the adrees in uk
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- Terry Cockerell
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Have a look at my posting in Restoration Tips for the broadcloth manufacturer J & S Taylor in the UK. Nigel will look after you.
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Terry Cockerell wrote: Rudy what sort of interior are you planning on fitting, woollen broadcloth or leather?
For interior woollen broadcloth in genava blue.
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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This is one of best pictures.
I believe running with these hub caps is not such a good idea . The holes in the production hub caps helped to cool the brakes.
T cockerell
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- RubyDS
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Terry, i hope finished next year ,i still have a lot of work
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- Terry Cockerell
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My Westchester was a complete and drive-able car when I started the restoration. That was 5 1/2 years ago. I hope to have it finished in around 6 months. You are certainly a dedicated and very talented man. Well done!
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Leaving them off until the drive train is sorted out is a good idea.
Some rudimentarey front fenders could be made from tin and fitted during trials.
I think the last item to be fitted should be the hood. Access to the hood bolt holes means leaving the drain pans off as well as the glove boxes and probable removing the front seat. Planning the work will save a lot of hassles.
My understanding of fitting the hood is to lift it onto the body, align it and fit the bolts from under the dash board.
The attached picture shows the provision for accessing the bolts.
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You may have already rectified this?
You have done an amazing job restoring the wreck you started with.
I take my hat off to you.
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I completely agree with Cliff. After listening to others at the West Coast Meet this month about the use of the 153 degree or 160 degree thermostats its the better idea. I had planned to remove mine but that will not allow the coolant to the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough for proper heat transfer.uconn_1965 wrote: If those are 153 or 160 degree thermostats, those are the very best ones to use.
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Terry Cockerell wrote: When my Cord arrived in Australia in 2007 it did not have thermostats fitted. The car was not driveable and needed a lot of work.
I opted to stop the coolant flow through the inlet manifold and used modern thermostats that opened at 160 deg F
I needed to drill a bleed hole in them and actually drilled two in each as the thermostat throats were smaller than the original type. This worked quite well in the car in conjunction with a shroud.
Recently I found a better design of thermostat with a much bigger throat, these are called full flow design. These were not available in the size I wanted in the past. They have a built in bleed hole and due to the larger throat diameter should work a lot better. I will find out later in the year when the car is back on the road.
The new full flow thermostat is made by Tridon in Australia Part No TT268 - 160
The cost is $41.oo Aust each.
From John Mereness: This appears solid advice, though I would have at least one hole drilled in the thermostat as that will eliminate air pockets and equally cause a slightly less dramatic "heat up" of the engine. I think we are all on the same page here, though just a double check. If you have a 185 thermostat in your car when you start the car the thermostat technically should be closed and open at 185 to more or less pre-heat the engine (great in winter to keep your feet warm), If you car though is naturally inclined to run at 165 on a cool day it will heat it to 185. And, on a hot day it will cause it to heat to 185 minimum too - but if your car is prone to running at 190 then car will run at 190 and if prone to 195 then your car will run at 195 and so on. Personally, I prefer the car to heat to 165 and then do whatever it is prone to do on its own after that without my extra help. Keep in mind too that water that moves too quickly through a radiator may not cool properly - thus thermostats are often also flow restictors to allow water to remain in radiator for a certain amount of time (ie when people remove thermostats they often encounter worse overheating that what they originally hoped to resolve).
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I opted to stop the coolant flow through the inlet manifold and used modern thermostats that opened at 160 deg F
I needed to drill a bleed hole in them and actually drilled two in each as the thermostat throats were smaller than the original type. This worked quite well in the car in conjunction with a shroud.
Recently I found a better design of thermostat with a much bigger throat, these are called full flow design. These were not available in the size I wanted in the past. They have a built in bleed hole and due to the larger throat diameter should work a lot better. I will find out later in the year when the car is back on the road.
The new full flow thermostat is made by Tridon in Australia Part No TT268 - 160
The cost is $41.oo Aust each.
T cockerell
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