Coil polarity

  • balinwire
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20 Feb 2004 22:52 #1340 by balinwire
balinwire created the topic: Update that data!
I do not know if any of these old part numbers are valid #?s but this is a very good example of how this valuable information can be relayed via .pdf files and printed.

There are some great old repair manuals with descriptions of where things go and what it takes to make them tick. I have some great old info on Startex information that I would like to scan. I could then share this old article via Adobe pdf?s on this post area.

I am interested in coil polarity on positive ground cars and its primary and secondary windings in the coil and the polarity of the high voltage wire tower. Should a positive ground car have the spark plug with a positive or negative ground? Is there special coil for + ground frames.

Anyone who has files on .pdf format please post them as they are very interesting to view. Post-post-post <!-- s:!: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_exclaim.gif" alt=":!:" title="Exclamation" /><!-- s:!: -->

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  • Auburn/Cord Parts
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24 Feb 2004 14:35 #1346 by Auburn/Cord Parts
Auburn/Cord Parts replied the topic: Re: Update that data!

balinwire wrote: I am interested in coil polarity on positive ground cars and its primary and secondary windings in the coil and the polarity of the high voltage wire tower. Should a positive ground car have the spark plug with a positive or negative ground? Is there special coil for + ground frames.


The old standing rule of thumb for positive ground batteries is positive wire to the distributor points from the coil. Most 6 volt systems were positive ground prior to 1949.

Stan

Auburn/Cord Parts, Inc. P.O. Box 547 1400 N. "A" St. Wellington, KS 67152 (620) 326-7751 This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

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  • balinwire
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25 Feb 2004 01:43 #1348 by balinwire
balinwire replied the topic: Where did the data go?
I noticed the engine cranking slowly and had several difficult starting sessions while the engine was warm.

After all the electric circuits were checked I looked to see if the coil terminals were grounded to the points.

Is there such a thing as a positive ground with the coil primary windings grounded to the coil case.

None of this matters if there is a spark at the coil.

I then remembered that it takes 20-40% more voltage to fire a plug electrode that has reversed polarity. It will result in hard starting, missing and poor performance. Could I have reversed the coil in series to the breakers?

A negative ground car must always have negative polarity to the spark plug center electrode. Would a positive ground car have a positive polarity at the center plug electrode?

Electrons will move from a hot object to a cold object at lower voltages. The center of the plug would be hotter than the electrode.

That is why I thought there might be a special coil that may have -, negative windings. Could an incorrect coil be reversing the ground to the plug.

This must be why there was a change in groundings in 48. They would get negative at the plug center easily.

To check coil polarity use a voltmeter from plug wire to ground and see which way the needle sweeps. Just having touble thinking in reverse polarity, everything is negitive nowdays. - + - + - + <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->

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27 Feb 2004 04:50 #1356 by Hal Klassen
Hal Klassen replied the topic: coil polarity
I think the 20-30% loss in voltage is from having a coil connected backwards. The main reason neg. grd. is used, is with pos. grd., the side electrode eroded [remember the round plug gapping tools?] As to the tip temp., I don't think there would be any measurable difference.
Hal Klassen

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  • balinwire
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28 Feb 2004 02:16 #1357 by balinwire
balinwire replied the topic: coil polarity
That is where the polarity comes into play; with the cold fuel intake charge would cool the electrode. With a positive charge at the center would require at greater voltage and the electrode would decay and cause harder starting.

That?s where the old gapper tools must have been used, interesting you remembered, I would like to see one of these tools. If everything is perfect slow starts are not noticeable but when things are old and the systems have marginal coils, starters, etc, all must be as correct as possible.

My car has an old replacement coil where the +&- signs are not noticeable and it might be a 6volt negative ground<if there is such an item> coil mounted to the firewall. It does make a hot spark; I am just trying to locate any weak spots in the ignition circuit.
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  • Josh Malks
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28 Feb 2004 14:39 #1359 by Josh Malks
Josh Malks replied the topic: Old coil
Step one, Balin': throw away the old coil. They used shellac as the insulator which breaks down with time even in a box on the shelf. Much more so in use, with all that heat under the hood.

Start with a new, epoxy-sealed coil. Then at least you'll eliminate that component as a problem. And, the polarity markings will be visible.

When you get to authenticity issues, you can gut an original coil, mount it in its proper place in the hole in the firewall, and run the hi-tension lead straight thru it to the new coil mounted inside the car under the cowl.

Josh B. Malks
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www.automaven.com

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