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replacement battery for 1937 Cord Phaeton
- mikespeed35
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CORDially Mike
PS I'm going to use it on a real CORD!
Mike Huffman
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- Josh Malks
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Josh B. Malks
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- mikespeed35
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I looked at the crimper on the site you mentioned. Does it require a special term. or will any term work?
OORDially Mike
Mike Huffman
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- Josh Malks
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I don't know if it's the best one or the best buy. Some of the more expensive ones have interchangeable dies so they can also crimp coaxial terminals, BNC, etc. I didn't need that. I bought this one because my local electronics store stocked it, and I could hold see and hold it.
Ratchet crimpers are certainly clumsier than the lightweight jobs. The technique that works best for me, where the situation permits, is to close the dies lightly on the tubular part of the lug, just enough to hold it. Then slip the lug onto the wire, and complete the crimp. Be aware that once it clicks, you cannot open the crimper until the crimp is completed, so there will be some waste while you're practicing.
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- mikespeed35
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Found a ratchet crimper in McMaster-Carr for 46.00. Do you have any better source?
CORDially Mike
Mike Huffman
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- cbs
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Need all juice at the coil that's for sure. Can't afford to be losing it as a seat heater. Good project.
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- Josh Malks
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Do not try to connect a battery terminal to a cable with just solder, no matter how snug the fit seems to be. Without professional equipment (and know-how) you cannot get the copper terminal evenly heated, which will result in a "cold joint". The solder will not coat the cable strands evenly either. It will "wick" up a couple of inches into the insulation, making the cable stiff and brittle at a critical connecting point. The result can be resistance and heat, neither of which our 6-volt systems can handle.
An impact crimper holds the terminal lug in a cradle, with a punch in a sleeve above . Several solid blows from a hammer on the punch will make a secure connection that will last for years. Most welding shops, where you buy the cable, have this tool and will do this job for you. Properly done (important) the copper fibers of the cable are compressed into a solid block of copper filling the lug barrel, almost as well as the big handle-type crimper does.
For small wires (#16-10) get a ratchet-type crimper. It won't release until the joint is crimped almost solid. More expensive than the auto supply store toys, but not that much. (About $25.) An aircraft crimper converges on #12-20 wire from 8 sides, with the same result as the huge battery cable crimpers. They cost $300 plus, tho. On small wire I use a ratchet crimper then solder the joint. Solder is a conductor, of course. Just not a great one. But it fills the voids and excludes air. I use a short piece of heatshrink tubing to mimic the original rubber insulating sleeves.
Mike, you should know better than to ask me a short question
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- mikespeed35
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Why not solder battery term.? I thought that was the best.
CORDially Mike
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Also, be sure that you use 00 welding cable, that you provide a ground of the same size from battery to a starter mounting bolt, and that the terminals are crimped on by a huge commercial crimper. (Not staked, not soldered).
Josh B. Malks
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- SW Hale
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Need to replace the battery. What battery will best replace the original. Have found one at napa, but it is a bit tall and will require changing the battery mount. Would like to keep stock.
Appreciate any information.
Thanks.
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