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replacement battery for 1937 Cord Phaeton

  • mikespeed35
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31 Oct 2006 02:52 #5684 by mikespeed35
Replied by mikespeed35 on topic crimper
Bought it and a nice stripper. Thanks Josh
CORDially Mike
PS I'm going to use it on a real CORD!

Mike Huffman

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  • Josh Malks
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24 Oct 2006 14:18 #5640 by Josh Malks
Replied by Josh Malks on topic replacement battery for 1937 Cord Phaeton
Regular terminal. I try to buy "naked" ones with thicker walls. If I'm forced to use an auto supply store product, I pull the plastic insulation off and substitute a piece of heat shrink tubing.

Josh B. Malks
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Check out CORD COMPLETE at www.cordcomplete.com

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  • mikespeed35
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24 Oct 2006 14:07 #5639 by mikespeed35
Replied by mikespeed35 on topic crimper
Josh
I looked at the crimper on the site you mentioned. Does it require a special term. or will any term work?
OORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

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  • Pat Leahy
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24 Oct 2006 12:07 #5638 by Pat Leahy
Replied by Pat Leahy on topic Cable connection
Although I have access to a cable crimper for welding cable, I prefer the following method. NAPA sells a positive, negative and lugs for 2/0 cable and special solder pellet. I slide a neoprene type heat shrink tube over cable and slide this back out of the way. Then you strip the cable even to full insertion into lug, insert the pellet by dropping into the lug or battery terminal. With lug or terminal mounted in the vise pointed up, You then use a torch and heat the lug until solder appears, and push the cable in flush to the lug. Make sure you heat the lug without burning the jacket, and check the connection when cool. I clean the lug, and then slide the shrink tube over the edge of the lug and heat it up with a heat gun. When done, this provides a very tight and sealed connection. Do not try this with conventional solder, it will NOT penetrate fully. This system is normally used on heavy applications such as over the road diesels. I do not use the NAPA cable, I purchase this from a welding supplier. Of course, the correct way is to buy a correct looking cable from a source such as Rhode Island Wiring.

Pat Leahy

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  • Josh Malks
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23 Oct 2006 16:00 #5635 by Josh Malks
Replied by Josh Malks on topic replacement battery for 1937 Cord Phaeton
The one I have used for some years is made by Velleman. See www.mbelectronics.com/view.aspx ? ... 20Crimpers

I don't know if it's the best one or the best buy. Some of the more expensive ones have interchangeable dies so they can also crimp coaxial terminals, BNC, etc. I didn't need that. I bought this one because my local electronics store stocked it, and I could hold see and hold it.

Ratchet crimpers are certainly clumsier than the lightweight jobs. The technique that works best for me, where the situation permits, is to close the dies lightly on the tubular part of the lug, just enough to hold it. Then slip the lug onto the wire, and complete the crimp. Be aware that once it clicks, you cannot open the crimper until the crimp is completed, so there will be some waste while you're practicing.

Josh B. Malks
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www.automaven.com

Check out CORD COMPLETE at www.cordcomplete.com

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  • mikespeed35
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23 Oct 2006 14:09 #5634 by mikespeed35
Replied by mikespeed35 on topic ratchet crimper
Josh
Found a ratchet crimper in McMaster-Carr for 46.00. Do you have any better source?
CORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

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  • cbs
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22 Oct 2006 15:05 #5627 by cbs
Have a crimped connection on the cable that leads to the startix; During crank test, sure enough there's heat at the battery cable-to-terminal connection under the seat. Everything else is cool, but probably the one at the startix would be hot if it wasn't already losing it up top!

Need all juice at the coil that's for sure. Can't afford to be losing it as a seat heater. Good project.

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  • Josh Malks
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20 Oct 2006 02:10 #5612 by Josh Malks
Replied by Josh Malks on topic replacement battery for 1937 Cord Phaeton
The vital points of connecting a terminal to a wire are to make full electrical contact and to keep gases (oxygen, etc.) from getting into the joint. This is especially true of high-amperage connections like battery cables. A proper battery cable crimper has handles 4 feet long, and jaws that converge on the terminal from four sides. The result is a cable and terminal that virtually become one, with no voids. Finding someone who has one of these tools is tough.

Do not try to connect a battery terminal to a cable with just solder, no matter how snug the fit seems to be. Without professional equipment (and know-how) you cannot get the copper terminal evenly heated, which will result in a "cold joint". The solder will not coat the cable strands evenly either. It will "wick" up a couple of inches into the insulation, making the cable stiff and brittle at a critical connecting point. The result can be resistance and heat, neither of which our 6-volt systems can handle.

An impact crimper holds the terminal lug in a cradle, with a punch in a sleeve above . Several solid blows from a hammer on the punch will make a secure connection that will last for years. Most welding shops, where you buy the cable, have this tool and will do this job for you. Properly done (important) the copper fibers of the cable are compressed into a solid block of copper filling the lug barrel, almost as well as the big handle-type crimper does.

For small wires (#16-10) get a ratchet-type crimper. It won't release until the joint is crimped almost solid. More expensive than the auto supply store toys, but not that much. (About $25.) An aircraft crimper converges on #12-20 wire from 8 sides, with the same result as the huge battery cable crimpers. They cost $300 plus, tho. On small wire I use a ratchet crimper then solder the joint. Solder is a conductor, of course. Just not a great one. But it fills the voids and excludes air. I use a short piece of heatshrink tubing to mimic the original rubber insulating sleeves.

Mike, you should know better than to ask me a short question :D

Josh B. Malks
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www.automaven.com

Check out CORD COMPLETE at www.cordcomplete.com

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  • mikespeed35
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19 Oct 2006 23:17 #5608 by mikespeed35
Replied by mikespeed35 on topic battery
Josh,
Why not solder battery term.? I thought that was the best.
CORDially Mike

Mike Huffman

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  • Pat Leahy
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19 Oct 2006 11:51 #5602 by Pat Leahy
Replied by Pat Leahy on topic Cord Battery
If your use the car as a driver, I suggest (2) Optima 6 volt gel batteries. The two will fit nicely, side by side, and you will the have a spare for emergencies. Only one will be in use, but I find it handy to have the second for others that are having trouble. I switch battery use from time to time to make sure they are both peak in performance. These batteries do not leak acid, and do not discharge much in storage. The cranking capacity is tremendous. The only drawback is the cost (about $120.00 each)

Pat Leahy

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  • Mike Brady
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18 Oct 2006 02:53 #5601 by Mike Brady
Replied by Mike Brady on topic replacement battery for 1937 Cord Phaeton
If authenticity is a primary concern, Antique Auto Battery ( www.antiqueautobattery.com ) in Hudson Ohio has a 12" x 7" x 8" high battery (with Cord marked on the side of the case).

Mike

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  • Josh Malks
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17 Oct 2006 17:23 #5596 by Josh Malks
Replied by Josh Malks on topic replacement battery for 1937 Cord Phaeton
Optima.

Also, be sure that you use 00 welding cable, that you provide a ground of the same size from battery to a starter mounting bolt, and that the terminals are crimped on by a huge commercial crimper. (Not staked, not soldered).

Josh B. Malks
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www.automaven.com

Check out CORD COMPLETE at www.cordcomplete.com

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  • SW Hale
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16 Oct 2006 19:01 #5590 by SW Hale
Still restoring our 1937 Cord Phaeton. It was fired up two weeks ago for the first time in over 40 years and it ran fine!

Need to replace the battery. What battery will best replace the original. Have found one at napa, but it is a bit tall and will require changing the battery mount. Would like to keep stock.

Appreciate any information.

Thanks.

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