Left hand thread on Stromberg

Hi again,

Seems to me that since the hole is stripped out already, you are free to use whatever-the-heck size helicoil you need. I have nothing against metric, so I'd be inclined to do a little conversion math and see what metric size will work best. Drill out the shaft carefully to the requisite size, tap with the tap provided with the helicoil, and have at it.

If right hand threading is more along your line of preference but you are concerned about this screw backing out, then set it in Locktite Red. Be certain that's what you want, though--once set up, that screw will then [size=150:3esg8fvt]still[/size:3esg8fvt] be installed long after only the cockroaches are alive on the planet.

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Tom

I must admit I did the same thing to my Stromberg years ago, and just placed a regular right-hand helicoil repair in the carb body. I was able to obtain an exact replacement stud with right-hand threads. It seems some Strombergs used right hand threads for the same stud, and the Stromberg carb parts dealer had a lot in stock. I just used a little locktite on the new one.
Jack

Thanks for the info; they had them in 3/8" length. I am not sure of the pitch; the original Stromberg bolt seems to be LH 12 x 24 and ?? heli is as close as they have, a ?? RH tap will not fit into the stripped hole. I will keep looking at the hardware site.

Here are the available inserts on this page,

MIL Specification MIL-122 or MIL-124
Type Helical Inserts With Tang
Material 18-8 Stainless Steel
Thread Type Left-Hand Threaded
System of Measurement Inch
Specifications Met Military Specifications (MIL)

Internal Thread Size
1/4"-20 | 1/4"-28 | 5/16"-18 | 5/16"-24 | 3/8"-16 | 3/8"-24 | 7/16"-14 | 7/16"-20 | 1/2"-13 | 1/2"-20 | 5/8"-11 | 5/8"-18 | 3/4"-10 | 3/4"-16

Insert Length
3/8" | 15/32" | 9/16" | 21/32" | 3/4" | 15/16" | 1-1/8"

Now if they have a reverse pitch drill gauge. Could Stromberg have used metric or a special thread pitch so the accelerator lever would not back out?

Hi Balin,

I saw your posting about that stripped out left hand thread in your carburetor. I looked at my "On-line Hardware Store of the Bizarre" and found that stainless left hand Helicoils as small as 1/4" are in stock and availble for immediate shipping. (I am guessing that smaller sizes may be made of Unattainium, but you could contact Helicoil directly. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> ) Go to www.mcmaster.com and search for Helicoil on the left side of the page. It should come up. If need be, navigate to pages 3057-9 to find them.

Btw--I once did the same thing on the wheel lug nuts of a Jeep. Should have known better also. Oh well--that was an easier fix.

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Tom

I am tiring to restore the stripped left-hand thread carburetor case. I was going to fill the hole with epoxy, or maybe low temperature aluminum filler and rethread with a left-hand helicoil repair insert, is there such a tool?



In case it can?t be recapped or corrected I don?t have to feel like I am the first one on the planet that stripped one of these. This is a picture of how I think Stromberg may have fixed the problem. This is a piece of hard wire that stays the bolt from turning. I tried to make one and it was very easy.



Here is a lug nut that is drilled for a steel safety wire; the five wheel bolts could be secured at the hub from loosening. I have never found out if this was a factory option.



This is the stay on a measuring stick for size ratio. It keeps the stripped accelerator bolt from backing out.

Happy B-day U.S.A., stay tuned for my new book I am putting together, 1002 ways to repair your car with a few inches of baling wire. Help I need any ideas how wire became a tool or how it got you home. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

balinwire wrote: Thanks Ks., that sounds like the perfect kit for my job,
?When all else fails, read the instructions!?

I am putting together a list of rubber front-end doughnuts and sway bar rubber bushings. I will include the rebuild kit with that order to save on shipping twice.

I would like to place my order on the ACD parts website.

We've been considering a website but have not yet convinced ourselves of the need. It seems the majority of Auburn and Cord owners do not spend a great deal of time online. We've been watching eBay and it seems that the majority of the ACD parts on there are being sold by the same 1/2 dozen individuals. So for now we are still using telephones and paper catalogs!

Stan

Thanks Ks., that sounds like the perfect kit for my job,
?When all else fails, read the instructions!?

I am putting together a list of rubber front-end doughnuts and sway bar rubber bushings. I will include the rebuild kit with that order to save on shipping twice.

I would like to place my order on the ACD parts website.

#424 standard carb repair kit. Needle and seat, power valve, some small parts, and gaskets. $67.75 You will probably need all of this.

Stan

I feel so DUMB for knot calling yall? for a scan, but I did not even think to look in your catalog for one, it was probably only a couple of bucks and it would have saved me from this terrible experience.

I was able to stumble through the rest of the cleaning and reassemble but I will need to contact you for a gasket set.

The groove was not visible with all the vice grip marks from everyone else trying to force it off. I still feel real stupid, other people make mistakes. Not ACDers

The accelerator screw should have a line around it to indicate that it is L.H. Thread. Also, our tech sheet calls attention to this fact. You can often make a workable repair with Loctite Thread Restorer. These old Strombergs are cousins to the Model 97 used on '30's Fords and are pretty tough.

Stan

I am sure everyone knows this bolt is a lefty but I didnt and made a big boo-boo taking off the carb acelerator pump bolt that is attached to the top front of the body.

The old junk stuff I got to work with I thought it was frozen on so I put enough force to get it off. Well it came off alright with all the threads! Oh well I will heli coil it and after cleaning the bolt threads but they were left hand. O-my was I sick.

Please do not do this to your carb body. Is this a common occurance? The two junk carbs I am tring to rebuild both have this problem so some one else did it to the other in the past.

Please use caution if you do not know. I am having a very difficult time with these Strombergs, they were delicate sixty years ago. I may have to run the old Solex but I do not want to as it has as many problems as these do.

I am really having one of those moments. I might just put a Holly 650 double pumper on if this keeps up.

I would like to purchase a stock carb for a FB engine in any condition, A rebuilt would be good but any junk one might help me make a running one. ===HELP :#( balin'