Re engine oil

Thanks so much.

Hi Aris,

To cat67 reply and the concern with non-detergent oil. I purchased a '37 Cord a few years ago ( many of you might remember the 'ole tomato can) which had been in storage for over fifty years. I dropped the oil pan and clean it, and put new fluids in it to include Castro Syntec 5W-50W. The car ran beautifully and did not smoke! This not to say yours will not smoke. The characteristics of synthetic oil is that it flows more efficiently then mineral based oils and maintains its vicosity up to about 600 degrees farnheit. I have a 1973 GMC motorhome that I switched to synthetic oil when it had 95,000 miles on the engine. The 455ci engines that were installed in them were noted for oil consumption and mine was no exception in that a burned a quart of oil every 500 miles. The engine did not smoke and I can not tell you where it went. Before changing to synthectic oil I called Castro's tech center located in New Jersey to discuss what I wanted to due. There answer was there would be no problem at all but if the engine was a leaker it would leak more because of the efficient flow characteristic of the oil. In my case, more oil consumption decreased on the 455 and I am now burning a quart every 750 miles or so.

For peace of mind, I would suggest that you give the oil company that you are considering a call and get their opinion. They are the professionals and at the end of the day, we are hobbyists.

CORDially,

Al Hatch

Actually, when I bought it the old Auburn was using HD oil. So it must not have much gunk in it because it is still not leaking. The car had been owned my a man who took very good care of it from new in 34 until he died in 83. The other owners barely used it.

67CAT
IF YOU ARE CURRENTLY RUNNING NON-DETERGENT OIL, AND MOTOR HASN'T BEEN REBUILT, IN MY EXPERIENCE , DO NOT CHANGE TO ANY TYPE OF DETERGENT OIL. THE ENGINE IS PROBABLY WELL SEALED WITH GUNK WHICH IS NOT NECESSARILY BAD, DETERGENT OIL WILL CLEAN THIS OUT AND RESULT IN LEAKS EVERYWHERE. I ONCE BOUGHT A 37 CADILLAC 12 WHICH HAD NEVER BEEN REBUILT BUT BEEN IN LONG VERY GOOD STORAGE, IT DID NOT HAVE A DROP OF OIL UNDER IT, SELLER WAS KIND ENOUGH TO PUT NEW OIL IN FOR MY 200 MILE DRIVE HOME, YES IT RAN THAT WELL, WHICH WENT PERFECTLY. I AWOKE IN THE MORNING WENT OUT TO SEE MY NEW PRIDE AND JOY, AND DISCOVERED THE ENTIRE OIL SUPPLY UNDER THE CAR. THE DETEGENT OIL HAD CLEANED THE ENGINE OUT NICELY. AFTER REPLACING VIRTUALLY EVERY EXTERIOR GASKET ON ENGINE I RETURNED TO NON-DETERGENT OIL AND DROVE AND ENJOYED THE CAR FOR SEVERAL YEARS, I PROBABLY COULD HAVE USED DETERGENT OIL AT THAT TIME BUT WHY TAKE THE CHANCE? AS OFTEN AS MOST OF US OVER CHANGE OIL I DIDN'T THINK I WAS LOSING ANY GREAT BENEFIT, AND THE PEACE OF MIND WAS WORTH IT. A CADILLAC 12 HOLDS A LOT OF OIL, AND LET ME TELL YOU THAT MORNING WAS NOT ONE OF MY BETTER MOMENTS.
THATS MY 2 CENTS WORTH, GOOD LUCK TO YOU.

Hi Al,

That is exactly what I have had in mind to use, a multi-grade synthetic. As 67cat wrote, I also get blue smoke, especially when the engine gets quite hot, even though I have no substantial consumtion.

Some locals have good results with a multi-grade synthetic sold to be used in diesel engines which can also be used on our classics, provided they run below 3500rpm. Does that sound right?
Aris

Remaining in the oil vein, I have a 34 Auburn 6 that blows a bit of blue smoke. It does not use enough oil to justify rebuilding (the motor has actually never been rebuilt), no more than a quart every 400-500 miles. Would the syntech do anything to cut down on oil useage of cut back a bit on the smoke? By the way, the old gal doesn't leak any.

Hi Aris,

I have been using Casto Syntec 5W-50W in my Cords and Auburns for about 10 years and found it to be far superior to the mineral based oils. The Rolls Royce article was informative but keep in mind synthetic oils have been around since World War Two. The only problem you my have is if your engine has a tendency to leak the sythetic will leak faster because of its flow characteristics. Synthetics hang onto the machined surfaces and will not drain back to the oil pan. This is crucial in as much as many of our antiques cars may sit for months without being started. Having the cylinder walls lubricated when starting the engine after it has set for months will ultimately prevent premature wear.

I have also realized higher oil pressure (about 45lbs.) but that is probably due to the weight of the oil. It maybe my imagination but the engine seens to run quieter.

CORDially,

Al Hatch

Hi Josh!
Seems I never received issue 6-04! Could you put that article on line for all to read?
I've only read your valued opinion in your book 'How to Maintain and Enjoy your Collector Car', so I was wondering how others owners deal with it.
Aris

Hi Aris.

Newsletter 2004-6 has an extensive discussion of engine oils by Bill Kennedy of the (Rolls Royce) Silver Ghost Association.

I ran a search here, but could not locate a thread on Engine Lubrication. Anyway,with many contradicting opinions on grades, detergents, synthetics and so on, I certainly can use some valuable opinions.
Aris