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SUPERCHARGED CORD FAN BELT

  • Tim Gilmartin
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15 Jul 2021 18:55 #43513 by Tim Gilmartin
Replied by Tim Gilmartin on topic SUPERCHARGED CORD FAN BELT
Here is the smooth belt info: they are called Bando Power King belts. Also, on the belt is Ban/Set. For the generator - B-46; for the water pump - B-31.
They are supplied by Mechanicdrive from Chicago. No email given; 844-803-7771.
Les Gerber, here in Colorado, has them on his driving Cord.
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16 Jul 2021 10:52 #43518 by alsancle
Replied by alsancle on topic SUPERCHARGED CORD FAN BELT
Thank you for this very timely thread and answers. I was looking at the belts on our car thinking they were probably changed sometime before the Vietnam War ended.

Are there any tricks to swapping them or is it self evident once I start? I'm looking at how buried they both are and not particularly looking forward to the job.

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16 Jul 2021 15:46 #43519 by 1748 S
Replied by 1748 S on topic SUPERCHARGED CORD FAN BELT
The water pump is VERY involved to replace. I recall Jim Obrien explaining how its done. Drain the coolant. Remove the water pump. Remove the distributor. Replace the belt. Doing this is much more than what I posted. Each item being removed has several steps.


Gary Parsons

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  • JIM.OBRIEN
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19 Jul 2021 23:57 #43533 by JIM.OBRIEN
Replied by JIM.OBRIEN on topic SUPERCHARGED CORD FAN BELT
A word of caution - there are a couple of different mounts for the generator on a S/C engine. As a result you need different belts because the generator is in a different position.
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21 Jul 2021 19:13 #43540 by RumRunner
Replied by RumRunner on topic SUPERCHARGED CORD FAN BELT
About 2 years ago I replaced my S/C Beverly fan belt. Here are the steps I took to replace it. Mostly correct. Hope it helps!

1. Drain water – there are three stopcocks to open; one each on drivers side and passengers side centered down low on the engine block and one low on the large radiator water inlet.
2. Remove horns – this gives you some elbow room. Really only need to unscrew the long horns; the main horn bodies can be left in place.
3. Remove the upper radiator tubes.
4. Loosen the hose couplings between the water pump and water inlets on either side of the engine and slide them all the way down the inlet to be free of the water pump.
5. Remove the hard pipe and couplings attaching the supercharger to the water pump.
6. Remove the hose end from the water pump leading to the heater core (?).
7. Loosen the hose clamps on the large hose connecting the water pump to the bottom of the radiator. You will be able to remove this hose once the water pump itself is unbolted and free.
8. Disconnect the radiator support and lean the radiator forward. The radiator can be held in the forward-leaning position by looping a rope or webbing around the top of the radiator and tying it tightly to the front bumper. This provides just a bit more room between the radiator and the fan to get your hands/wrench in to access the next set of bolts.
9. Now that you have some room to work, loosen the two nuts on the pump pulley at the angled slots. Once the nuts are loose, the inner pulley face can be spun independent of the outer face and doing so will move the inner face toward the pump (along the angled slots) and relieve tension on the water pump belt. This is how the V-belt is tensioned. The inner pulley may be hard to move. Make sure you’re trying to spin it the correct way, put a large screwdriver in the holes adjacent to the slots, and give it a few hammer taps to get it to move. Relieve tension on the belt.
10. Remove the fan blade assembly. There are four bolts that hold the fan blade assembly to the pump flange. Remove these bolts and the fan can be removed. Note: Do NOT remove the castle nut to remove the fan blade assembly – you may need to remove the cotter pin, but that’s it – the castle nut should stay in place. Once the four bolts are remove, the fan blade assembly can be removed from the car – the radiator will need to be leaned forward to make room for this.
11. Remove the distributor. This needs to be removed so that the water pump can be tilted to get the belt off once the water pump is free. The distributor is held in place by a single bolt. Remove this bolt and slide the distributor up and out. Careful of all the wires.
12. Remove the lower bolts only on each of the water inlets on the engine block. The lower bolts must be removed to provide clearance to get the pump belt off the lower pulley. Just remove the lower bolts – keep the uppers tight, and don’t move the inlets themselves.
13. Remove the water pump. There are four bolts that affix the water pump to the transmission case. You’ll need a u-joint for your socket set to remove the forward of the two bolts. Once you get all four bolts out the pump is free. There are two small locating pins on the flange between the pump and transmission case that hold the pump in correct alignment. You may need to rock the water pump a bit to get it off these. Once free, tip the top of the water pump toward the engine to get the belt off, then the pump can be removed entirely from the car.
14. Remove the belt. With the pump out of the car remove the belt from the lower pulley.
15. Replace the belt with a new one (Gates TR26341 or equivalent; 23/32” x 34-5/8” cogged; 18mm x 879mm cogged).
16. Reverse the steps to re-install the water pump. Make certain that all captive hose couplings (like the large hose between the water pump and the radiator) are in place before you bolt the water pump back in place! Also, make certain that the radiator is no longer leaning forward when you re-attach the upper hoses! And if you removed the cotter pin on the fan blade castle nut, replace it!
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  • George van Nostrand
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22 Jul 2021 00:26 - 22 Jul 2021 09:19 #43544 by George van Nostrand
Replied by George van Nostrand on topic SUPERCHARGED CORD FAN BELT
Good directions. A suitable tool for adjusting the pump pulley is : a steel rod 3/8 " diam x 18 " long , a tee 9/32 " x 1 " welded to the end. It saves butchering the pulley.

Restoring 1936 Cord Westchester sedan.2023 A
Last edit: 22 Jul 2021 09:19 by George van Nostrand.
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