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How to change the cross shift diaghram?
- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- Pat Leahy
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- alsancle
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- mikespeed35
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CORDially Mike
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- alsancle
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- Pat Leahy
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You can test it like the normal switch. If is defective, let me know and I will send new switch.
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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The Green-Red(#5) wire will bring the voltage back to the wafer in the selectotr switch and power the white (#1) wire.
From what you are saying I'm back to the interlock switch on the cross-shift is not wired properly.
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- alsancle
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I made the fish paper wafer and I don't think there is any contact between the wires and housing. I would guess if there is a problem at the switch it is in the switch itself. Before I take it apart again i will test for continuity between the red wire and the yellow/black. I'll also see what the behavior is with the clutch disengaged.
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- alsancle
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Car running, clutch down, cross shaft in center neutral position, with the shifter in neutral I'm get 6 volts (5.6) on the yellow black wire and zero voltage on any other wire.
I'm could not have been more careful with the selection switch and we tested every wire per Jim's instructions prior to pulling the switch tight to the column. Perhaps something shorted when it was tightened up?
Anyone want to comment before I pull it apart again? I think there is enough slack in the harness.
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- alsancle
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- alsancle
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I have tried putting back the original (ACD Factory replacement) interlok but it is very hard for me to tell how it was original wired as the wire colors were gone. I can't get that switch to work at all. I have an original switch and I may solder some wires on to it and install it to see if that cures the issue.
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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First off great video, that really helps.
When you are in neutral you are somehow getting power to the #9/yellow wire. (pulls the cross shift over to the right side). When you try coming out of 1st gear you are not getting power to the #1/white wire which pulls the cross shift out of gear and returns it to neutral.
First guess is you have a wire wrong on the interlock switch. Second guess is there is a problem up in the selector switch on the coulmn. I'm leaning towards the first guess I'm just not sure which wire(s). I have to thinks on it some and study the wiring diagram.
Jim
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- alsancle
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So, messing with the interlok switch I can get it to go in to ever gear. So the issue I'm having now is clearly eletrical. Right off the bat, you can see in this video I'm getting vacuum pulling it to 4th gear position when the selector is still in Neutral. Any thoughts?
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- Terry Cockerell
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Thanks for the update.
T cockerell
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- alsancle
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EDIT: I have no idea why these are upside down. Any local tool I open them with shows them with the correct orientation.
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- uconn_1965
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- Terry Cockerell
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I was able to start my engine for the first time recently since the restoration began however when I tried selecting gears I was only able to get 4th gear. With the new looms fitted there must be an electrical problem or two somewhere to be sorted out.
T cockerell
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- alsancle
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Terry Cockerell wrote: Go back to page one of this topic and look at the drawing I had posted.
The slot is open at the top to accept the switch.
I would say I must have put it back together upside down. That would explain some things. Thank you.
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- Terry Cockerell
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The slot is open at the top to accept the switch.
T cockerell
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- alsancle
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1. ACD Factory replacement from the 60s that has been in the car for 50 years.
2. A new replacement that I forget where I got it from.
3. The original I just got from an ACD club member at Hershey.
The ACD replacement has been installed so I removed it but left it wired.  I noticed that by fiddling with the location manually the car would go into the gears, but not the way you would expect it to.  Potentially mis-wired?
So, I swapped in the new replacement and by manually moving the position I could get the car into every gear in the way you would expect. I had this switch installed before and it wouldn't work which makes me think there is an alignment problem with it. I'm going to try to slot the holes.
I would try the original unit, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to wrap the lever around the shaft. The replacements go straight in, but the original wraps around the back and points towards the switch.
A.J.
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- alsancle
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Went from having only 2nd and 3rd to having nothing. At this point I walked away for a month as I was disgusted with my trouble shooting ability. Went back to it on Saturday. Removed the interlock switch and manually moved the location of the switch by hand, and everything worked. The switch is aftermarket and I'm not sure it is aligned correctly. I'm going back to my former also a replacement switch to see what happens.
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- alsancle
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Once on the bench, it was still tough for me to slide the diaphragm off. I've given the assembly to a shop to do the replacement. It took me so long because I needed to get a 12 point 1/2 inch socket with extra thin walls to get at the #4 bolt. I didn't want to turn down one of my good Snap On sockets.
I took pictures of the different bolts sizes. There seems to be 3 different lengths. Numbered clockwise starting in the upper left corner looking at the front of the transmission.
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- Terry Cockerell
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If this does not work do as Jim suggested take the whole cross shaft assembly off the gearbox.
T cockerell
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- alsancle
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Terry Cockerell wrote: As a follow up on the last posting I had to remove the cross shift cylinder and diaphragm to fit the speedo drive. The slotted connection adjacent to the leather diaphragm allows the unit to be removed without taking the cross shaft housing off the gearbox.
Terry, could you explain how you did this? It feels like I'm a 1/4 of inch too tight when I pull the diaphram to the left, even with the shaft as far to the right as it will go - looking from the front.
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- Terry Cockerell
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- mikespeed35
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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1. Disconned the rod from the main shift cylinder (remove the cotter pin and pull the pin out).
2. Disconnect the oil line from the filter at the center bottom of the cross shift housing.
3. Remove the wires from the cross shift swotch.
4. Remove the 6 bolts holding the cross sift houseing to the transmission - note which bolts come out of which hole - the bolts are three different lengths.
5. Remove the housing. You have to pull it straight towards the front of the car to get the pipe out of the top shaft and then wiggle it around to disengage the dogbone from the shift rails.
Look at the article in Newsletter #2 this year for mor info on the cross shifter.
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- alsancle
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Do I have to remove the passenger side fender? Or is it easier to pull the front cover off the transmission? Suggestions?
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