Clutch switch adjustment

The clutch switch is a simple " make and brake" type switch except the make position of the lever is in a different position then the brake..
Looking inside the switch, the sliding box has stops the allow this action.

E L wrote: The design of the original switch has a "delay" built in.
The position of disengage on the down stroke of the pedal is different then that of the up stroke. This gives the transmission more time to shift then it would if the switch was just a make or break type of switch.

Could you explain how this works? I'm wondering if maybe I don't understand something. My understanding is that when the clutch is depressed, the harness is energized by the red wire. When the clutch is released, then the power is dropped. I don't understand what the "delay" on the release would do.

The design of the original switch has a "delay" built in.
The position of disengage on the down stroke of the pedal is different then that of the up stroke. This gives the transmission more time to shift then it would if the switch was just a make or break type of switch.

Here is the replacement switch I sell, closer to original.

Here is the replacement from Auburn Cord Parts. The original can generously be described as "fragile". The replacement is a better design and is more substantial. My only minor complaint is the wires are now on the frame side, so I need to remove the switch to get at the wires. Also, putting a meter or a test light on them would be pretty tough.

Stan Gililand sells a good replacement switch.

Although our switch now always fires the Startix, I'm seeing odd behavior once the car is started. Sometimes the connection to the transmission harness goes dead.

Is anyone making new reliable switches?

After spending a few hours on my back trying to adjust it I gave up and put it on the bench. There was no continuity at all on the bench, and that was because it only worked when the face plate flexed enough.

I'm very lucky that I live near Mike Lavalle of KES who restored the switch for me in 24 hours. According to him there were a number of issues:


1. The rivet on the hot input was loose and would flex losing contact.


2. The plate was cracked and also flexing.


3. The nubs that make contact were not even and were making uneven contact.


I put it in and all my starting problems were gone. Also my shift harness is now energized with the clutch down.

I was thrilled and jumped right in to testing the shifting with the new harness. It was not doing what it is supposed to do so more testing is in order. Sigh...

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