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Gearbox issue
- JIM.OBRIEN
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- Tcheri
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- pete kelly
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every second year. There could be an online membership directory but I am not aware of it. Perhaps Joe Holderman or Tom Lee can fill us in.
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- Tcheri
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vidmateapp.win Bluestacks.red 3movierulz
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Check the nut on the end of the shaft. It should be a hardened nut. Someone may have replaced it with a standard nut.
With the wear on the plunger check all the other interlock parts. They may be soft steel. I'd also pull the differential apart and check the bronze washers in there for excessive wear.
Yes ,it seems you found multiple problems that would cause the car to jump out of second gear.
When you reassemble the synchronizers spend extra time setting the release pressure. It makes the shifting much smoother.
Jim
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- Tcheri
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We noticed the following problems :
- 2nd/3rd fork really used and marked
- 2nd/3rd fork screw broken ! When removing the screw, the lower cone part was broken and still blocked in fork ! The fork had some play, explaining probably the wear
- 2nd synchro broken and marked
- 3rd synchro better, but still to be replaced
- Rail Shift Interlock 2nd / 3rd damaged, 2mm shorted than expected
- all gears ok
And finally, strange thing, the main shaft transmission nut was really loose.
I guess all this can explain that my 2nd gear was disengaging ?!
Most of those parts are available at ACD Factory, any thought ?
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- Tcheri
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- Pat Leahy
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Gary Parsons
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- Tcheri
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Where is the best place to buy gearbox and clutch parts ?
We know already that clutch beariung and clutch are dead.
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- Tcheri
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- Terry Cockerell
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[email protected]
T cockerell
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- Tcheri
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I already bought the book as soon it was released
My problem is the english language, quite technical, where I do not understand all words. And my mechanic is not speaking english at all !
Do you think it's possible to get the text from the club/writer to translate it in french ?
Thanks
Thierry
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- 1748 S
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- 1748 S
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Sadly this site would not load from ebay but.... Use the ebay search 1936 1937 Cord parts and acessaries to find the listing. The club has several for sale on ebay.
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Gary Parsons
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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You are lucky the transmission hasn't blown up. Don't drive it or do any shifting second or third. The sync may over travel and all the balls and springs come out which can cause MAJOR problems.
The sync rings are worn out. The shift fork has too much play in it. The transmiussion is shifting way too easy so there are other problems. In short you need a complete rebuild.
Get the Transmission Manual. It can walk you thru the rebuild as long as you have a good machinist and someone who understands gearboxes. If you have questions as you go ASK!
JIm
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons.
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- Terry Cockerell
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He has just about completed the restoration of a Custom Beverly Cord.
You guys could probably talk more easily to each other.
Just a suggestion.
[email protected]
T cockerell
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- Tcheri
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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In watching the video I think it is jumping out of gear which results in the cross shift lever moving some. When you depress the clutch it pulls it back into 2nd gear. I wonder if the transmission is getting all the way into second gear? I can't tell from the angle of the camera.
Either way there are some noises there that don't sound good. Please pull the main shift cylinder and pull the cover off the transmission and see what is going on in there.
Jim
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- Tcheri
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thanks all for your replies.
Here is a new video : Video
I still don't know if the 2nd gear goes out because the plunger moves a bit, or is it due to the actuator ?
Any idea ?
Thanks
Thierry
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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- t.hills
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Cheers, and good luck.
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- 1748 S
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- mikespeed35
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is going on.
CORDiallyMike
Mike Huffman
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- Tcheri
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When the problem occurs, on the second gear only, the gear does not disengage totally : I have an horrible gear noise, if I release the throttle, it comes back to normal. I decided to record the shifter and indeed, the gear command is moving. Here is a small video, look around 20 sec, you see the selector moving . On the video, the problem does not occurs (and I am wondering why as last day, it was the case)
Video
My question is to know if that play in the command can cause a temporary disengagement of the gear and if yes, how to solve that
Many thanks
Thierry
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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I'm sorry to say but it sounds like the problem is in the transmission. You said you changed the oil in the transmission - did you strain the oil as it came out? did you find anything in the oil such as spring parts, balls, etc? Try removing the main shift cylinder and the transmission cover and take a look inside.
In the mean time no more driving, you can go from bad to a whole lot worse very quickly.
You may have told us before but where are you located?
JIm
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Yours looks fine. THere is some slight wear but that should be enough to allow the transmission to jump out of gear. I'm going to try and attache a drawing I did years ago that will give you the dimensions.
Make sure the plunger is going in properly. First look in the hole if you can, you should see two cones (one from the top and one from the bottom) with their tips cut off meeting just below the center of the hole. I hope that makes sense.
If you push the plunger in manually you can feel in it hitting those rods and then pushing them apart. You want to make sure the plunger goes in as far as possible. From the wear it looks like it has been engaging properly. hook up the linkage and have someone step on the clutch. You should see the plunger pull out, when the clutch is released the plunger should go all the way back in. If it is working properly give it another road test and see what happens.
If you have problems or hear strange noises get it back in the garage quick.
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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Usually the end of the plunger is worn from the locking pins it engages. You can weld up the plunger and grind it back to the original deminsions. Also make sure the linkage is adjusted so the plunger goes all the way in and engages the locking pins.
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- JIM.OBRIEN
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The two issues may be related. The clutch sticking on the is usually a linkage problem somewhere. Check the guide at the base of the firewall where the clutch pedal goes thru the floor. The other problem area is the shaft thru the frame.
For jumping out of second gear this was a known problem. The company added an interlock on the side of the transmission to prevent the transmission from jumping out of gear. The interlock plunger is connected to the clutch linkage. Disconnect the linkage at the plunger (pull the clevis pin) ansd slide the plunger out. Check the end to see if it is worn. The end is wedged shaped with a shelf behind the wedge. Many times the pins in the transmission wear grooves in the plunger and the pins no longer lock the transmission in gear. If there are grooves worn in either make a new one or weld up the old one and grind it back to the original shape. I'll see if I can find a photo of a warn plunger and post it.
When putting the plunger back in adjust the linkage so the plunger goes in as far as possible.
These two items will prevent the transmission from jumping out of gear unless there is a problem in the transmission.
Jim
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- Tcheri
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after some few miles with my 812, I have a problem with my gearbox. Strange that it's just after I did an oil change with the recommended Lubriplate SPO-277... coincidence I suppose.
My problem is that after my second gear is engaged, above +/- 2000 rpm, the gear seems to disengage with a lot of pinion noise.
Is this a problem inside the gearbox or is it a typical problem of the command ?
All other gears works well. Note, and not at the same moment, that I had also an issue with my clutch pedal being stuck on the floor (after some mile on the highway). I believe that is not related.
Thanks
Thierry
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