1933 8101A Water temperature sensor in head

For soaking parts in atf/acetone to get them apart ipossible I put the parts in a bucket with sealable top or PVC tube with end caps. Every couple of days I shake it to keep the acetone mixed. Keeping the mix cold seems to slow the acetone loose but slows the process (non scientific observations). A car size tub of the mix would be handy!

Acetone evaporates quickly. Seems like all you would have is ATF unless it was used very quickly?
CORDiallyMike

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


Penetrating oil Average load
None 516 pounds
WD-40 238 pounds
PB Blaster 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench 127 pounds
Kano Kroil 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds


The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix.

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

Yes, scientific research has been done. ATF & acetone is the best !!

Gary, Thanks for the information. I have heard about acetone and auto trans fluid and use that as much as possible. I do believe it works.

The best penetrate I have found in 50 years or turning wrenches is Aerokroil from Kano labs. If this wont free up a rusted thread apply heat to about no more than 200 degrees. Then cool with the Kroil. It can been seen to get sucked down into the threads and free up anything.Very good on manifold bolts. Run the engine till warmed up. Spray it when you shut it down for the night. Do this a couple of times. When rust forms on threaded surfaces it makes about 50,000 lbs of pressure on the incline threads making them tight. When rebar rusts in concrete it makes as much pressure causing concrete to stall or explode from the metal. That can be dangerous.
Another good homemade penetrate is acetone and auto trans fluid. Mix equal parts and apply it but.. Realize acetone is dangerous to your kidneys.


Gary Parsons

Thank you Randy, I'll contact them

Mo/Ma Albaq NM R

Randy, Would you know who the people are that repair the water temperature sensor? I had to pull it out today and loosening the unit from the head broke the tubing .

Randy, Thanks for advice on the bulb. Using a heat gun to apply heat to the head above the large 7/8 nut and a 7/8 flare wrench, I was able to loosen the nut to finger tightness. For over a week, I have been spraying the bulb with anything I could think of to break the "seal" onto the nut. No luck. Now, with the large nut finger tight, I was able to carefully , with the slack in the copper tube, position it to allow me to turn the nut with my fingers and get it out. Fortunately, the nut was not into the head too far and about a 3/4 turn of it was all it took to remove it. I have found that brake cleaner spray works wonders in cleaning long time use of Barr's Stop Leak off the bulb and inside of the water jacket. Thanks to the club for all their input in helping me with this project of cleaning out the cooling chambers. It would have been much harder without your support. For anyone interested, my car was featured in the April 2017 issue 151 of "Classic Car" magazine, Driveabledream article. Thanks again, Thom

The sensor (bulb) is held in by the first nut and seats in the 7/8 nut .Goooood luck getting it out, if you break the line connection there are people that rebuild them. R

To my club friends, thanks for your help with the head bolts. About 80 ft/lbs was all it took to loosen them to get the bolts out. I am cleaning the water passages in the head and block. To be safe, I need to also remove the water temperature sensor . The small nut came out without any problems. Now the 7/8 inch bolt is giving me a run for my money. Does anyone one know if the sensor in the block is held in place by the large bolt or does it provide a smooth surface and guide for the sensor to sit in? Can the sensor come out of the block with the 7/8 bolt left in place? I have been spraying PB blaster both around the nut at the head and inside the cavity hoping to get it apart. Once again, thanks for any guidance. Tom