Cracked Cylinder head

Hi Jojn,

I have an extra cast iron head available if you are interested...

Contact me at: <a href="mailto:[email protected]][email protected][/url]

Regards,

Hal Bjorklund

Thanks to everyone for the replies. Looks like the best thing is to find a new reproduction or old intact head. Will look for either. I'm having the car repainted now so this is a good time to replace it with the hood off.

John-

Only a couple of solutions. Either replace it, have it welded, or fill the cracks with overlapping threaded twist off fasteners. I would think there are used heads available.

Stan

Aluminum Heads: Best to try and weld these up. You'll need a good welder. The aluminum in these old castings is poor quality and hard to weld. Might take a try or two to get it right.

Cast Iron Heads: They make tapered plug screws that work good. You drill a hole at the end of the crack, tap it, and screw in the tapered plug until it breaks off. Grind it flat and repeat. Overlap the first screw by half - drill right where the screw meets the head. By overlaping the screws they will be locked into place.

If you can get a used head that is guaranteed to not be cracked the it will be the best way to go. I'd have it magnafluxed before you put it on though.

Derek

John: I had the same problem with a 27 Ford several years ago. I tried having it repaired to no avail. I ended up purchasing a reproduction head for it, which worked like a charm. If a new head is available for your car, this would be the best solution, in my opinion. Mark

I have noticed a hairline crack in the Cylinder head of my '31 Auburn sedan 898A. It's above the 3rd and 4th spark plug area with only a slight amount of antifreeze leaking out. Car is missing out on higher revs under load when engine is cold and improves when hotter. Is the engine swelling and sealing this crack when hot? What do I do with this crack? Can it be welded/repaired. From inside and outside? Anyone with experience with this matter?