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1932 8-100A fuel pump

  • pwright
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15 Oct 2003 02:52 #891 by pwright
1932 8-100A fuel pump was created by pwright
The fuel pump on my 8-100A seems to be leaking. I have what appears to be a new or rebuilt fuel pump which came with the car. Is replacing one as simple as removing the 2 nuts, taking off the pump, and replacing it, or are there any little hidden tricks that I'm not aware of. For example, does the fuel pump actuator arm fit into a slot, groove, etc. Also, I have no idea how long my "new" pump has been in the trunk of the car. Would that create a problem? Thanks, Pete

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  • Al Hatch
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15 Oct 2003 11:47 #892 by Al Hatch
Replied by Al Hatch on topic 1932 8-100A fuel pump
Replacing the fuel pump is pretty straight forward. Removing the two bolts plus the incoming and outgoing fuel lines is about all it takes. The actuator arm will have to be aligned with the pump rod but that is not a big deal. Your concern about putting on the pump that came with the car is valid. It might appear to be NOS but the diaphramg (spelling!) may be dried out. Short of tearing the pump down the only thing you can do is put it on the engine and see what happens. It may not leak right away but you should moniter it for awhile. Your other option is to put an electric pump on the car. If you go this route, it should be mounted in the rear of the car close to the gas tank. You can pick up a good electiric (I recommend a Carter) at any good auto parts store. They may have to order it but it should only be about a day. Typically, they are priced from around $90 - $100. Good luck!

CORDially,

Al Hatch

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  • pwright
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15 Oct 2003 22:51 #895 by pwright
Replied by pwright on topic 1932 8-100A fuel pump
Thanks for the info Al. I removed the fuel pump this evening to try to see where it is leaking. It is coming from what appears to be a vent hold of some sort on the side of the pump below the diaphragm location. The "new" pump I have is not the same as what is on the car. The activator arm is not at the same angle, nor is it as long as the original so I put the old one back on the car. Any ideas as to what may be causing the leak? Also, if I were to install an electric pump, does the fuel line bypass the original and go directly to the carb? Sorry, but I'm not the brightest of mechanics! Thanks, Pete

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  • Al Hatch
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15 Oct 2003 23:53 #896 by Al Hatch
Replied by Al Hatch on topic 1932 8-100A fuel pump
Pete,

It sounds like the diaphragm is the problem. You have some options; 1). You can rebuild the pump that is on the engine. 2). Purchase a new unit which should not be that hard to find, and 3). Put an electric fuel pum on. If you op for the third option you can run the electric pump thru the mechanical pump but I would strongly suggest removing the actuator arm from the mechanical pump and checking the diaphragm for leaks or you can totally bypass the mechanical pump altogether and go directly to the carb. The electric pump can produce up to 5 or 6 pounds of pressure which is far more the the engine requires. An inline pressure gauge can solve this problem in as much as most of these devices have an adjustment on them which allows you to set the pressure. Most of the cars of this era only require about 1 lb. of line pressure.

If you are having your car judged the electric fuel pump will cost you points on originality. If your car is a driver then it is not a problem.

Good luck,\.

CORDially,

Al

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16 Oct 2003 16:59 #897 by Mike Dube
Replied by Mike Dube on topic 1932 8-100A fuel pump
Pete, another option is to rebuild (or have it done) your current pump. While an electric pump as a backup is a good idea, there is no problem with the mechanical one as long as its in good condition. Is yours a Stewart Warner, Carter, or?

Mike

Mike
8-100A

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17 Oct 2003 13:13 #906 by PushnFords
Replied by PushnFords on topic 1932 8-100A fuel pump
When working on a car like yours I would usually rebuild the pump that is on the car now. Most of the time I'll also wire in a electric fuel pump and mount it in the rear of the frame. You can power it by a toggle switch hidden discretely under the dash. It just takes one power wire and one ground wire that will go to the frame. Parts stores that specialize in commercial accounts (not Autozone, Advance, etc.) can get you a 6V electric inline pump. I usually kick the elec. pump on first to prime the carb and fuel pump - you can hear the elec. bog down some when everything has gas. Then I switch it off and run with the mechanical. I guess for me it is just something about using the original parts to make the car go - personal preference.

You'll need a fuel pressure regulator like already posted. There are two types available. One was made by Purolator but they quit recently. It can still be bought at Autozone (Spectre brand) and through O'Reillys. It has a simple dial on the top that you push in and turn to the desired fuel pressure. They are usually accurate to +/- .5psi. The other type is more common now and is a log type regulator. It has a screw/set screw on the top to adjust the pressure. You'll need to set the pressure with a guage that you hook up inline after the regulator or one you temporarily hook up. I usually operate them at 3psi.

Derek

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