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Water pump lubrication
- Curti
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Both loops and the straps are called for in the factory parts book.Armed with that knowlage, it is my opinion, if they are missing it is because the assembly person got lazy.
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- rfloch
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I wonder sometimes what will happen to the old ones when new cars all run on hydrogen and there are no filling stations to dispense gasoline. I have a client with a genuine, unrestored 1870's stagecoach in his garage. The leather on the seats and boot and the harnesses are as brittle as paper and he just looks at it as it slowly decays because he can't exactly hook up a pair of horses and drive it on the street. Is that was is to become of most of the old classics now sequestered away in the garages of collectors?
You're right. It's important to drive them because the more people who see the early 20th Century classics and understand the greater intimacy they required between the machine and driver, the more they will appreciate this icon of the last century before it fades into the more distant past.
Richard Floch
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- PushnFords
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rfloch wrote: Pushin,
That's a legitimate question. Here's my answer, you may have another.
I drive the car and have had the top down most of the summer. It doesn't have the best visibility over the back and it would be improved if I could compress the top even a little with tie-downs. Besides the lack of some footman loops on some of the cars sent out by the factory isn't, to me, an intentional change in design. It sounds like an oversight in assembly, or a weak attempt at cutting corners in its last years when the company was in financial trouble and Mr. Cord was off in England.
Sounds like you have a good reason then! I've been in many discussions about whether a car should be left 100% original or have modifications made to extend its service life or function. It is nice to keep it original but on the other hand if you can slightly modify it and have the car out being used more, then more people will see it and appreciate it. I didn't mean to sound so brisk in my last post - sorry! <!-- s:? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt="" title="Confused" /><!-- s:? -->
Derek
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- rfloch
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That's a legitimate question. Here's my answer, you may have another.
I drive the car and have had the top down most of the summer. It doesn't have the best visibility over the back and it would be improved if I could compress the top even a little with tie-downs. Besides the lack of some footman loops on some of the cars sent out by the factory isn't, to me, an intentional change in design. It sounds like an oversight in assembly, or a weak attempt at cutting corners in its last years when the company was in financial trouble and Mr. Cord was off in England.
Richard Floch
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- PushnFords
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Derek
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- PushnFords
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Auburn/Cord Parts in Wellington, KS rebuilds pumps with modern parts all the time. Might check with them.
Derek
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- Curti
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but a 34 ??? They are in the Auburn parts book. I hold mine in with #8 machine screws. If you are going to get your waterpump machined give me a call evenings 715-262-3183
Cheers
Curt
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- rfloch
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Curti wrote: Hi Richard :
It sounds like you need to rebuild the waterpump. I would suggest MODERN sealed bearings (there are two of them) and a new John Crane neoprene / ceramic seal.
I appreciate all of the information here. It isn't enough sometimes to just read the manual.
Curt,
As usual, your advice to rebuild the pump seems sound. I have temporarily put in a zirc fitting and filled the pump with waterproof grease. It's quiet and doen't leak, but I now have doubts about the thing.
I assume that there is going to be a bit of machining to change the pump to modern bearings and a seal. I'll be looking for a shop that can do the work in my area.
By the way, I looked all over the tub wall behind the rear seat for holes that are for mounting the footman loops for the top. There aren't any, so I assume that is the way that it came from the factory. Some one said earlier taht a number of cars were not fitted with the hardware for the top. I'll be contacting you about the footman loops and will get around to drilling holes for them one of these days. Are they supposed to be mounted with machine screws or through-bolted?
Richard Floch
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- Curti
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It sounds like you need to rebuild the waterpump. I would suggest MODERN sealed bearings (there are two of them) and a new John Crane neoprene / ceramic seal.
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- Auburn/Cord Parts
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Price: $7.50 each Part #812B
Stan
Auburn/Cord Parts, Inc. P.O. Box 547 1400 N. "A" St. Wellington, KS 67152 (620) 326-7751
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- rfloch
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Auburn/Cord Parts wrote: Your water pump seals are probably failing as water is washing the lubricant away. The pump should have a grease cup with a check ball and be filled with waterproof grease.
Stan
Hmmm. What I have is a 1/4" pipe thread plug on top of the pump assembly. If there is a check valve inside, I can't see it and there certainly isn't a grease cup.
My Auburn owner's manual says to lube the water pump with "medium heavy engine oil" so that's what I have been doing, but I now that you mentioned a grease cup I find that 1934 Auburn Service Bulletin #64 says that's what I should have as well.
So apparently, I need to obtain a proper grease fitting before I burn out the bearings. Do you have one?
Richard Floch
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Stan
Auburn/Cord Parts, Inc. P.O. Box 547 1400 N. "A" St. Wellington, KS 67152 (620) 326-7751
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- rfloch
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I seem to have to give the water pump a shot of oil more frequently than I would think necessary-- about every 100 miles. If I don't, I get a bit of bearing noise. If I put too much in, it leaks out the shaft and the fan blows it all over the engine and firewall. No water leakage and it sounds smooth when oiled.
It doesn't seem that there is any felt under the plug in the oiler... should there be?
Richard Floch
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