phaeton top

As for the gas gage, cut the ferrile off the line. Try to drill it out if you can. I have tried to buy these things but have been unsuccessful. (Many calls around the nation.) I actually had a machinest turn a couple out for me, but it is cost prohibitive. Once you get the ferrile, just sweat it on like doing plumbing. You don't need hard silver solder that the factory used.
If you need a line kit, I can supply you one.
Your phaeton top should have on each side of the windshield header , a plate with a loop hole in it . The screws securing the plate are covered with upholstry material, so that only the loops show. When the top is folded down, these loops line up with the two footman that are secured to the body. The straps are then threaded through the two loops and cinched up. There is a strap for each side. These straps are similar in material that hold the tool pouch in the trunk.
Give John Ehresman a call, he has the exact original pattern for the top boot. John is a EXPERT on Auburn restoration. He is also the ACD club technical advisor on 34-36 Auburn He has owned and restored over 30 of them. 413-786-3013. Tell him I told you to call.
Yes I have the correct black laqured spark plug wires you need, and the brass end extentions. Are you running Champion C7 plugs ?

Curti wrote: Hi Richard :
Your phaeton should have two footman loops secured to the back side
of the tub that the top sits in when it is folded down.
After some research my wife has been able to duplicate the straps and correct buckles. These should be available soon.
John Ehresman has a pattern fot the top boot. It is more complecated
than the top it self.
How is that 34 running since you got the CI head installed.

Curt,

Good to hear from you again. The cast iron head went on beautifully except for the fact that I had to modify the pipe threaded location for the thermostat by drilling and tapping a spot just to the right of the original location (which now contains the heater valve). Apparently, the CI head has less clearance for the thermostat probe than the aluminum one and I couldn't get it to work there.

The car now runs great and I am also getting more complete combustion-- at least the plugs show less carbon and have a nice tan on the insulator. Glad things worked out and I appreceate your help.

I still haven't got the fuel gauge working right, though. Both the sending unit and the new gauge now are functioning, but there seems to be a kink in the copper line right at the ferrule at the tank. I've got enough tube to cut out the kink but I don't know where am I going to find someone who can solder the ferrule back on that tiny stuff. Without taking the whole pressure line out of the car, I am afraid to use a torch anywhere near the gas tank so it will have to be soldered with an electric iron.

Count me in for a set of straps and buckles when you get them made up. As I understand it, the footman loop is for mounting the strap below the top but I will still need the fasteners behind the seat? Or have I got it backwards. Don't I need two fasterners for each strap. A permanent one on top and something that has a prong or buckle for the other end behind the seat?

As for the boot, it's hard to imagine that it is more complicated than the top, which I find to be an interesting if not efficient bit of design engineering. I'm going to have to replace the top one day so maybe I can just get a pattern for the boot and have one made when I do the whole job. Do you have John Ehresman's email address or a phone number?

Until then, if I can just tie down the top, maybe I can see out the back when it is down...

By the way, do you have a set of correct, black high tension wires and brass nuts for the spark plug wires? I've been running modern wires and connectors, but a friend in the CCCA who is the chief judge at the Ironstone Concours talked me into entering my Auburn this year. I guess I had better get it to original before then.

The factory quit putting the hardware on some cars during production. So it is possible your car never had any. As for the boot, upholstery items are usually better left custom fitted. I'd find a good upholstery shop that can make one up to fit your car and your top.

Derek

Hi Richard :
Your phaeton should have two footman loops secured to the back side
of the tub that the top sits in when it is folded down.
After some research my wife has been able to duplicate the straps and correct buckles. These should be available soon.
John Ehresman has a pattern fot the top boot. It is more complecated
than the top it self.
How is that 34 running since you got the CI head installed.

I have a '34 850Y Phaeton which has had the top down only once since I have had it. The top is in good shape, has all of the hardware, but does not have a boot nor any tie-down straps that I can see. When it is folded down I can't find any anchor points in the rear well or anywhere else where straps might go that would fit through the slotted brackets on the front bar when it is the down position.

I have looked at Auburn Service Bulletin #58 from 1934 which show some straps that look like the perforated end of a belt on the inside at the base of the top. They appear to be sewn on to the inside of the top but it is hard to tell if there is any other type of anchor point. The bulletin also says once the top is down to "...lift rear seat cushion up and snap straps in place on fasteners provided there."

My top seems to be missing the straps and fasteners.

Question 1: Does anyone have any pictures of the proper strap and fastener configuration for a '34 phaeton top?

Question 2: Was there also a boot for the original phaeton top?