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Needing some chassis pictures
- ilikescars
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- johnmereness
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SIDENOTE: The chassis number is on the side of the frame rail on the passengers side frame rail under the fender a foot or so back from the wheel - protect it best you can - and then nicely tape over number, paint frame, and then clear coat the number blocked off area - this is the best way for "certification" as the club will sand on the number if it is not readily visible (a cost of doing business more or less).
Also, I would call the frame a more than satin black and a less than high gloss black. I actually took Curt's advice from eons ago and we shot rustolium commercial black from the paint gun - looks great.
JMM
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- prattm
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Matthew
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- johnmereness
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ALL Frame end horn damage is normal. The photo are bottom is correct. There is a casting extension for the bumper bracket too (just sort of bolts on with main bolt). The bumper bracket to frame bolts are unique to the car too.
Your cowl has a few extra holes - the horn relay is in wrong spot and the voltage regulator is in wrong spot/not correct.
Way too much wiring going on too.
For a wiring harness - speak to Marcia (pronounced Marsha) at Rhode Island Wire. And she can integrate turn signals if wanted.
JMM
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- prattm
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- Curt Schulze
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Give me a call, I can help you out with with some of your burning questions.
I am in the club directory.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- prattm
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Thanks, I do have that, not bound as a book but I do have it. I have been using that as I go, but as you stated before, those are drawings. Also, the pages I have reference the 1934 850X and 850Y, so I wasn't sure if everything was the same on the 851.
That being said, I am just trying to see what was actually built and is considered acceptable within the ACD community.
Thanks
Matthew
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- 1748 S
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Gary Parsons
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- ilikescars
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- prattm
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That's why I'm here asking questions and requesting pictures. I have an early 35, so I'm not entirely sure what is and what is not legit on my car. As you can tell, someone had their way with cutting and creating. You should see what they did to all the fenders. Plus, they cut the running board brackets off with a saw, and I'm being generous with the term cut. They look chewed on.
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- rlwardne
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Offering up any pics so I posted
ones you had sent me a few years back.
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- prattm
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I promise, I have tons more questions coming.
Thanks
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- yorkgulch
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- yorkgulch
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Auburn 851
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- prattm
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ilikescars I know there are parts of the rear frame, especially right in front of the rear axel that will need to be replaced (cut out and weld new pieces back in).
I'll try and get some pictures later today. The other problem I have is they welded the rear fenders into the body. I assume they did this because the bolt point in the wheel well are pretty rusted out. I think most of this was done in the late 50's early 60's. That's just a guess.
On a topic related to the pictures rlwardne sent. What is the deal with shock absorbers? I see some 35's with them, and others with what is shown in the recent pictures. I know the ones on my car are mounted incorrectly, but what is shown in the pictures by rlwardne?
Thanks in advance
Matthew Pratt
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- rlwardne
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- ilikescars
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Perhaps you are looking at the body sheetmetal framework: That would be an easy fix...
What makes you think that the frame is bad? Are there parts cut off with a torch?
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- prattm
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I'm trying to remove the air deflector (didn't know what it was), but right now 5 screws are standing in my way.
It's actually a coupe, but like I said, from the firewall back it just gets worse. As soon as I figure out how many bolts are left holding what's left of the body on, I'll take some pictures of the rear.
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- ilikescars
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Otherwise, the frame appears to be OK. If you remove the air-deflector in front, I can determine if all is well.
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- prattm
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Thanks
Matthew Pratt
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- mikespeed35
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CORDiallyMike
Mike Huffman
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- prattm
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Thanks in advance!
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