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Cord 810/812 front spring mounting
- stroker
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Thanks so much- After reading your answers I think I'll take out the wedges I installed but leave the 1/8" plate in place.
Another question- the doughnuts with the raised lip- they don't fit into the large spring eyes. Do I grind the lips to a smaller diameter and mash fit them in place?
Again, thanks so much for the great advice.
Pete Rhoads
pete rhoads, restoring 810 phaeton 2241 H
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- Josh Malks
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Josh B. Malks
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The two bottom, #14 and #13 are strong bottom leaves that are appx. 36 ?? in length. They are ? in. thick. The very bottom one #14, counting from the smallest spring to the largest, has a round hole 1? ? in in. diameter for rods and is cut square at the ends.
#13 is the same length and thickness as #14 with square ends as well but with a 1? ? in. hole that looks somewhat like a keyhole?
#12 is 33 1/2? long and finely tapered at the ends. 3/16 thick
#11 is 33? and tapered, 3/16?
#10, 32? tapered, 3/16?
#9, 31? tapered, 3/16?
#8, 30? tapered, 3/16?
#7, 20? square cut, ? in thick with retainer bands
#6, 19? square cut 3/16?
#5, 17? tapered 3/16?
#4, 16 1/2 tapered 3/16?
#3, 15 3.4? tapered 3/16?
#2, 14? tapered 3/16?
#1, 12 ?? tapered 3/16?
These are approximate dimensions as the spring is assembled with an arch. The 3/16 in? taper is in thickness as well as width.
The problem I have on my new spring installation is that when the spring is compressed under load and the spring saddle it torqued down to hold the spring in place.
As soon as load is removed from spring, such as jacking the car up, the bolt?s are under more stress causing the frame to bend and crack at the bolt mounts.
My temporary solution is not to over tighten the bolts. The weight of the car holds the spring in place. The spring pin penetrates the frame center and cannot slide out.
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Josh B. Malks
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Since there do not appear to be any discernable differences in the front spring on cars assembled after January 1937, the new vendor apparently supplied springs to the same specs as the earlier one did.
Josh B. Malks
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"Spring - Front Part #D11124 $18.75" - Preliminary Parts List 5-37 Service Division, Auburn Automobile Company
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- Josh Malks
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1. All Cords used the same front spring, and there were no [i:2c2cfuhz]factory[/i:2c2cfuhz] variations in numbers of leaves, leaf thickness, etc.
2. All of the leaves were the same thickness.
3. All springs had two identical bottom leaves, with a hole at each end.
4. All springs had 14 leaves.
5. All leaves except for three --- the two bottom ones and one in the middle to which the clamps were attached --- were rolled and tapered. That is, the leave got thinner and narrower at the ends.
6. The top "leaf" was actually a short piece of flat stock with an arc ground in the bottom to match the curved leaf under it. This "leaf" is best replaced with a longer flat piece to spread the pounding of suspension shocks over a wider area of the crossmember and reduce the tendency to crack.
This being Cords we are talking about, your newly-purchased car may have any number of leaves, in any combination. Collectively, we've seen them all. I THINK the above info is accurate. Stan? Hank?
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I have seen some Cords with only one bottom leaf. I don't know if they came this way since Cord had at least two suppliers for almost every part or if they were modified sometime over their life. I would feel more comfortable with two bottom leafs, just in case. I have a spring with 13 leafs and one bottom leaf and one with 14 leaves and two bottom leafs...take your choice.
I've never heard of a Cord front spring with only 7 leaves. Unless that's all that you can count and the others are up in the frame channel.
I did the same modification with the plate at the top of the spring, but I had to remove the top two leafs to get the same overall height on the spring, I may have used a heavier plate, I don't remember.
It sounds like the car is coming along, do you think it will be on the road this year?
Jim
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Al hasn't responded so I will.
Yes two long leaf springs both have holes in ends for bolts. Cracked frame at this area is normal. Your repair sounds good.
Haven't heard of anyone adding spring wedges. Maybe the two main leaves where the holes go through need replacing. They should have a arc to them rather than completely flat with the all weight on the car.
You see Cords down in the front because they handle better. I was told between 11 and 12 inches from center of bumper bolt that goes through to the body down to the ground.
You should have a total of 14 leaves. That's what mine has. I am pretty sure that is correct.
You may have to have the weight on the stub frame to get the long bolts through the springs to get the nuts started.
The raised flanges on the cups go into springs and at swing arm to keep bolts centered without slipping from side to side.
Hope this will help you.
CORDially,
Tom Dudley
P.S. Maybe Stan has some more help.
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- stroker
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I wonder if this modification will have any adverse affects on the caster/camber of the front wheels. The frame is still out of the car so I can modify/change this rather easily now.
On another point, I have a box full of the doughnut cups, some of which have a raised center flange, and some don't. Any info as to which doughnut cup fits to the spring hole and which fits the suspension arm?
Thanks for any help!
Pete Rhoads
pete rhoads, restoring 810 phaeton 2241 H
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