Radiator electric fan

  • Aris Loumidis
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01 Nov 2004 20:30 #2433 by Aris Loumidis
Aris Loumidis created the topic: Radiator electric fan
Question for Josh or anyone else with this experience: Which electric fan is best for our 810?s?

I just took delivery of two 8' inch, Kenlowe fans from England. Unfortunatelly, they turned out to be 12V fans, wich operate under 6volts with hallf the output. Not very effective indeed.

Is there a fan built for 6volts that will fit and do the job on our cars?

Aris

Aris Loumidis
Athens, Greece
ACD Life Member
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1936 CORD 810 Phaeton

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  • MICHAEL S SMITH
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01 Nov 2004 20:55 #2434 by MICHAEL S SMITH
MICHAEL S SMITH replied the topic:
ARIS
I LOOKED HARD AND NEVER FOUND A MODERN FAN AT 6VOLTS. THERE ARE TWO WAYS YOU CAN GO, GET TWO OLD 6V FANS OUT OF OLD HEATERS AND FIGURE OUT A MOUNT, OR ANTIQUE AUTO BATTERY(AVERTISES IN EVERY HEMMINGS LOCATED IN OHIO) SELLS A 6/12 VOLT BATTERY WITH A TAP FOR EACH, WHICH YOU CAN THEN USE FOR 12 VOLT TO YOUR STARTER AND OTHER ACCS. AND 6 VOLT TO EVERYTHING ELSE(SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO CHANGE ALL BULBS ETC.) BUT YOU MUST CHANGE YOUR GENERATOR TO 12 VOLT FOR CHARGING.I HAVEN'T TRIED IT BUT I WAS TOLD IT WOULD WORK, AND IT SEEMS REASONABLE. ANOTHER OPTION WOULD BE TO INSTALL A AUXILLIARY 12VOLT BATTERY AND CHARGE AS NEEDED AT HOME, IF YOU HAVE TO USE AUXILLIARY FAN VERY MUCH AT ALL, YOU PROBABLY SHOULD GO THROUGH YOUR COOLING SYSTEM ANYWAY AS IT SHOULD ONLY BE NEEDED FOR PARADE TYPE DRIVING IN HOT WEATHER.

MICHAEL S SMITH ACD LIFE MEMBER #40
851 auburn phaeton
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812 cord phaeton(ex Tressler Swiss)
812 cord custom s/c beverly
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  • Josh Malks
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02 Nov 2004 15:06 #2436 by Josh Malks
Josh Malks replied the topic:
Scotts Cooling Fans is a well-known name in the auto fan industry. They carry a full line of 6-volt fans, all sizes. They're in Valencia CA. Phone (800)451-9461, Fax (661)295-9342.

I've used a 12-inch fan as a pusher. It's the largest that will fit, because of the main shift cylinder. (I also had to make the front grille brace removable.) The position of the electric fan was concentric with the mechanical fan --- not a useful location. (I'm not sure how much good it did on the road, but it definitely prevented boiling when stopping the car on a hot day.) What we really want is to cool sections of the core not well covered by the mechanical fan --- i.e., the left and right sides. We also want to put the most cooling effort where the water is hottest --- i.e., the top of the core. So, theoretically at least, the best solution is two fans at the top of the core. Aris' solution is just right. In addition, in the Cord, that's the area that gets the least direct airflow, because of masking by the hood. Two 10" fans are the largest that will fit, because of the hood latch strikers. I plan to try this soon myself, and I think the motors will clear the grille front brace.

My alternator will handle the load easy enough, but check it for third-brush generator cars.

I'm becoming more convinced that a major cause of warm running in the Cord, everything being in good condition, is the built-in problem of airflow thru the radiator. Am working on some ideas. Will report if anything useful turns up.

Josh B. Malks
810 2087A
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03 Nov 2004 00:48 #2438 by
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I'd like to add my 2 cents on this, especially on Josh's last paragraph. At low speed on a hot day I agree that air flow is the biggest problem. At high speed I think the radiator is the problem.

At low speed the radiator core is fairly thick and the fan cann't pull the air through the core. There is a large gap between the radiator and the fan and it's easier for the air to go around the radiator and through the fan. This is where a radiator shroud and a spacer on the fan help.

At high speed I think the problem is water flow through the radiator, more precisely water flow out of the radiator. I had my radiator recored this past spring and when we pulled the bottom tank off I found the tank was 1/2" deep (in the center section) and the tubes from the core stuck down about 1/4". This leaves about 1/4" for the water to flow across the bottom of the radiator tank - this is not enough for good flow. When they recored my radiator I had them build a box on the bottom of the core to give a full 1/2" for the water to flow across the bottom tank. I really don't know how much this helped since we didn't have a hot summer to really test it out and I also put a shroud on at the same time. But the car is running much cooler.

If you read Al Goodman's Odds & Ends from the late 1950's I think he was onto the same thing when he reported about his water pump pully redesign and radiator tank modifications.

One other note for you Josh, you might want to talk to Al Light, he and Bill O. are working on an article for the NL on thermostats. We've been exchanging emails and Al is proposing some interesting testing...maybe we'll have to rig up a Cord and see if we can get some answers.

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  • Josh Malks
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03 Nov 2004 01:49 #2439 by Josh Malks
Josh Malks replied the topic:
Your comments are welcome and to the point, Jim. I will talk to Al about that test program.

As you know, I knew Al Goodman well and bought his Cord when he could no longer maintain it. In addition to the items in his article, Al and I talked specifically about that narrow "neck" in the bottom tank. (It's required by the hump in the radiator crossmember, in turn caused by the shape of the tranny case at that point.) Jim's adding to the crosssection is a very good idea. (Another way to do it if one is recoring anyway, I think, would be to use a 1/2" shorter core and build up the bottom tank walls by that amount. The fan doesn't even reach that lower part of the core anyway.)

All of us will be very interested in your results with more crosssection, Jim.

Josh B. Malks
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  • Aris Loumidis
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03 Nov 2004 18:40 #2443 by Aris Loumidis
Aris Loumidis replied the topic:
How fortunate we all are with this forum, especially some of us from far away!

It seems I am about to work more on my 810.When I rebuilt everything, including engine and a new honeycomb radiator from the UK, the temp was quite ok, Since then and after some heavy traffic in and out of the city to attend ceremonies, it has been steadily getting worse. As I have read in this forum, I suspect the head?s and engine?s passages need another clean job ...... :(I wish I had read Josh?s book on water and the 50/50 antifreeze ratio, and the special radiator paint he mentions.

I was ready to attack the weak Kenlowe fan performance with my brother in-law, an electronics expert who bailed me out before on electrical issues. He plans to make me a 6 to 12volt Inverter, so that my 6v fans will work at full rpm. My 8 inch fans now pull only 1,3 amps each and in 12volts they should draw 4,2 amps, so with the inverter?s needs, the total amps should be ok for my standard generator ? I hope. I await from Scott?s cooling fans their specs and cost, to decide what to do.

As I can?t post pictures, I?m emailing to Josh pictures of my pump, fan and pulley, so he may determine if I have the original ones. The pump I got from Stan new, but that was some years ago and I think I might have to look inside it. Maybe I could try a smaller pulley if mine is too big. Also I find the fan sitting too far away and too high compared to the radiator. At at the top, the blades sit behind the top of the tank, instead of the radiator core. I just read that this is normal however.

Another question on the thermostats. What temp do they open at? Should I remove them? I know this will not resolve the issue, but it will buy me some time in traffic before things get too hot.

I also have a heater, with valves that I could shut off, however I think having more water in the system and circulating it through the heater core also helps. Is this so? I could also turn the heater?s fan on, but then I will be the one overheating!!!

On the shrouds I read above, has anyone made any so we can copy them?

Aris Loumidis
Athens, Greece
ACD Life Member
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1936 CORD 810 Phaeton

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