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DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT

  • Pat Leahy
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01 Aug 2017 13:00 #33351 by Pat Leahy
Replied by Pat Leahy on topic DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT
The bearing is not a tapered roller bearing type so you are just tightening the bearing against the shoulder of the front hub and spindle. I think the torque may closer to 300#'s. As mentioned a 3/4" beaker bar and a pipe is required. My understanding is that when you install the brake drum with hub it should fit tight. If the fit is correct and the nut is properly torqued, the brake will not come off easily.

Pat Leahy

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  • Jonathan Richards
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01 Aug 2017 05:03 #33349 by Jonathan Richards
Replied by Jonathan Richards on topic DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT
In my comment a few minutes ago I misspoke on the flat washer thickness issue. The substitute washer is 1/4" thick verses 3/8" thick on the original. The looseness or play in the front spindle bearing is now gone. It is too damned late for an 81 year old to be typing technical car talk. See you down the road. 10/4, Jack Richards #1080 in Missouri

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  • Jonathan Richards
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01 Aug 2017 04:54 #33348 by Jonathan Richards
Replied by Jonathan Richards on topic DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT
Thanks to North Carolinian uconn_1965 , Californian 1748S and Michigander mikespeed35. In the last twenty four hours
I purchased a 1" less thick Grade 8 flat washer and tightened the spindle nut with a 16" SK breaker basr. The nut is tight, the cotter pin can pass from 8 to 2 on the clockface and the brake drum/U-joint/drive shaft assembly turns readily. Is there any safety or reliability problem created by the thinner washer substitution??? The bore of the new washer is 1 1/8" vs 1" on the original so the washer is not fully concentric with the axis of the spindle. However, the face of the nut is in full contact with the washer. Thanks for your further comments. Jack Richards
#1080 in Missouri.

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  • mikespeed35
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01 Aug 2017 04:37 #33347 by mikespeed35
Replied by mikespeed35 on topic DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT
Hi Jack, I know little about 810-12 Cords but if you are talking about wheel bearings Timken suggests having .002 end clearance when adjusted correctly. This is usually accomplished by tightening the nut tight and backing it off and tightening it by hand only. I have used washer shims if I thought the end clearance was too tight or loose at the cotter pin hole. Looking forward to seeing you at Auburn.
CORDiallyMike

Mike Huffman
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  • 1748 S
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01 Aug 2017 02:25 #33345 by 1748 S
Replied by 1748 S on topic DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT
I recall the torque is above 150 ft pounds. Will research it and post back what my records show.
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  • uconn_1965
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01 Aug 2017 01:04 #33344 by uconn_1965
Replied by uconn_1965 on topic DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT
My experience is to make that castle nut as tight as possible. Car should be on the ground. I have a 3/4" breaker bar about 18" long. I then slip a 5' lenth of 1/1/4" black pipe over the breaker bar so now I have a breaker bar about 4' long. Trust me you'll be able to tighten the castle nut to be able to install the cotter pin.
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  • Jonathan Richards
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31 Jul 2017 08:58 #33343 by Jonathan Richards
DRIVE HUB SPINDLE NUT ADJUSTMENT was created by Jonathan Richards
In preparing Geneva ( S#32410S) for the 500 mile trip to Auburn a month from now I detected unacceptable looseness or play in the left front wheel with the car on jack stands. The upper and lower king pins are tight. Upon removal of the cotter pin and tightening of the 1 7/8 " spindle nut I can eliminate the bearing looseness but am unable to match a pair of holes in the castellated nut with a new cotter pin. Is it possible to install a slightly less thick washer under the spindle nut and thus gain sufficient turn of the nut to enable proper placement of the cotter pin with proper load on the drive hub bearing ?? I know you veteran Cord mechanics can give me guidance and advice. Thanks, Jack Richards ACD Club Member #1080 in Missouri . Cell Phone Area 712/621-1854.

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