Severe front wheel shimmy at 55 +- MPH

  • Jeff
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28 Sep 2004 02:06 #2284 by Jeff
Jeff created the topic: Severe front wheel shimmy at 55 +- MPH
I have a 1936 Cord 810 Phaeton with a severe front wheel shimmy when I hit about 50-55 MPH. I've had the wheels hi speed balanced, checked the steering linkage and steering box, rebuilt the shocks, and set the wheel toe out as per Cord specs. Has anyone else had this same problem and does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks, Jeff

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  • MICHAEL S SMITH
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28 Sep 2004 05:07 #2286 by MICHAEL S SMITH
MICHAEL S SMITH replied the topic:
JEFF

YOU MIGHT TRY FINDING A TIRE SHOP WITH EQUIPMENT TO BALANCE WHEELS AND TIRES ON THE CAR. THIS SPINS ENTIRE ROTATING MASS AND BALANCES EVERYTHING. I HAVE ALWAYS HAD BEST RESULTS WITH THIS METHOD.

MICHAEL S SMITH ACD LIFE MEMBER #40
851 auburn phaeton
851 auburn sedan
810 cord westchester
812 cord phaeton(ex Tressler Swiss)
812 cord custom s/c beverly
812 cord s/c cabriolet
812 cord s/c beverly
80 866 speedster (pray factory built)

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28 Sep 2004 12:34 #2287 by Pat Leahy
Pat Leahy replied the topic: wheel shimmy
My experience has been that the brake drum hub fit to the front bearing wheel bearing is critical. I found that you should jack up the front end and grab each tire to check for any movement. If there seems to be any movement in the wheel to hub, not the king pins or steering mechanism, try to tighten the axle nut to 350 foot-pounds (a bunch). I had to replace a bearing and switch brake drum hub to get a tight fit. The hub should be tight when inserted into the bearing. George Arakalien often builds up the the brake hub surface with hard chrome and grinds to obtain a tight fit. I found that "CV"'s can also cause some problems. Hope this helps...

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  • Josh Malks
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28 Sep 2004 15:53 #2289 by Josh Malks
Josh Malks replied the topic:
This was the single biggest problem faced by Cord owners in the last decades of the twentieth century. Reams of material have been written on it, including a three-part series I did in the early '90s. Issues included:

- Center steering arm bearing, bolt and bolt holes
- Caster correct
- Wheel runout within tolerances
- Toe-out correct
- Universal joints without excessive looseness
- Front wheel bearings in good condition
- Front hub tight in bearing (the real solution to both of the above is the Richardson conversion)
- steering linkage ends (tie rod ends tight, spring ends properly adjusted)
- Fenders secure, not free to shake
- Door wedges and strikers properly adjusted
- Front spring u-bolts tight
- NO cracks in frame (even tiny ones)

Most of all, tires. Change to radials, and I'm guessing that the problem may go away even if all the above aren't perfect! (One should still strive for perfection, though :-)

Josh B. Malks
810 2087A
ACD Club Life Member
ACD Newsletter editor
Past president
www.automaven.com

Check out CORD COMPLETE at www.cordcomplete.com

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  • Jeff
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28 Sep 2004 19:58 #2290 by Jeff
Jeff replied the topic:
Thanks for the help. I do plan on changing to radial tires.
Jeff

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  • Auburn/Cord Parts
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28 Sep 2004 21:37 #2293 by Auburn/Cord Parts
Auburn/Cord Parts replied the topic: Cord Shimmy
I'm going to add my .02 to Cord shimmy. Amoungst everything else, they shimmy from too much caster. If a Cord sets lower in the rear than the front, it is bound to shimmy sometime, too much caster. Also to add to Josh's list: old, soft, and oily motor and transmission mounts! I've had Cords with all of the above loose, worn out, near junk, and no shimmy.

Stan

Auburn/Cord Parts, Inc. P.O. Box 547 1400 N. "A" St. Wellington, KS 67152 (620) 326-7751 This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

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