- Posts: 1745
- Thank you received: 134
Balancing Cord 810 812 Brake Drums
- 1748 S
- Offline
- Platinum Forum User
-
Registered
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- mikespeed35
- Offline
- ACD Club Life Member
-
Registered
- Posts: 885
- Thank you received: 194
Cordially Mike
Mike Huffman
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Terry Cockerell
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Elite Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 1338
- Thank you received: 302
I made sure there was space for the weights by using modeling clay as a trial between the rims and brake drums. The drums had repairs already done in the form of building up the areas where the wheel rim dimples sit.These had been machined to give a flat surface.
Again putting each drum on the wheel balancing machine and testing them I found they were out as expected due to the weight of the welds. Noting the small imbalance and marking the location I used a small angle grinder to remove the required amount of metal from the added weights. This required a bit of trial and patience as I didn't want to remove too much weight.
I noticed each time I re-positioned each drum on the machine the results varied by plus and minus 5 grams.
I settled for that and believe it will be a great improvement above 60 mph.
Now I just have to have the body repairs finished, get it painted and put it all back together.
Terry Cockerell
Australia
T cockerell
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Thomas Wilcock
- Offline
- Senior Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 89
- Thank you received: 8
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Thomas Wilcock
- Offline
- Senior Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 89
- Thank you received: 8
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Terry Cockerell
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Elite Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 1338
- Thank you received: 302
At present I am making some steel weights to add to my drums. Yesterday I went along to a tyre (tire) shop to get the drums statically balanced on a wheel balancing machine. When the owner and I did the first drum he asked what type of car they were from. When I explained an 810 Cord he said "It looks like you know what you are doing so you do the other drums yourself." I was a bit stunned but took up the offer.
One front drum was perfect and didn't require any weight.
The other one was out by 100 grams and it was the worst.
The two rear drums were out by around 70 grams.
When finished I asked the owner how much I owed him. "Nothing ." was the reply. I said how thankful I was and asked could I recheck the drums when I had finally added the steel weights. "No problem>" was his generous reply.
When I get the weights finished and welded in place I will post some pictures. I have pressed the weights into a curved shape that will sit against the steel flange of the brake drums.
I told the guy in the tyre shop that I would by my tyres from him from now on.
Attached is a picture showing the method I found on the Internet for statically balancing the drums.
T cockerell
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- balinwire
- Offline
- Premium Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 150
- Thank you received: 19
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- mikespeed35
- Offline
- ACD Club Life Member
-
Registered
- Posts: 885
- Thank you received: 194
Cordially Mike
Mike Huffman
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- balinwire
- Offline
- Premium Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 150
- Thank you received: 19
I remembered the old garage who balanced Dads car and went on a mission to find something similar, there were some with cabinets and lots of accessories but I found this bolt on adapter and a small spinner that work fine for the front drive Cord. The rear wheels could be bubble balanced. Finding instructions is another thing, none available. the closest I could find was a description of a fellow whos dad lost a finger on the spinning balancer, very dangerous in a shop, so plenty of warning.
I took this one apart and could see two weights spin in an orbit setting the scale to the light side of the wheel assembly where extra weight would be added and re-spun till correct balance was achieved. I am sure a lot of the Cord front shimmy was because more of an unbalanced condition rather than sloppy bearings etc. On the Cord you would not need the wheel spinner, jack up the front end and let her Lycoming drive the wheel spinner balancer.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Terry Cockerell
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Elite Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 1338
- Thank you received: 302
I had a look on the Internet and found a simple procedure for statically balancing the drums which I think will give the desired results I need. I had read that others with different makes of cars had the same problem and used this technique with good results.
Each drum needs to be checked on a balancing machine. The weight to be added noted and the position marked.
Adhesive weights are to be used. After checking the available gap or space between the inside of the wheel rim and the drum, a suitable size steel weight can be fabricated checking the weight and allowing for the welds, then welding it to the brake drum steel flange.
The amperage must be kept well below 100 amps to avoid causing distortion.
The next step is to check each drum again on the wheel balancing machine.
I would rather do the drums and wheels individually as the wheels can be rotated for wear and there is always the chance of a flat tyre along the way.
Balancing a wheel and brake drum as an assembly has its limitations as mentioned.
Regards,
Terry Cockerell
T cockerell
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- mikespeed35
- Offline
- ACD Club Life Member
-
Registered
- Posts: 885
- Thank you received: 194
Cordially Mike
Mike Huffman
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- john mccall
- Offline
- Moderator
-
Registered
- Posts: 79
- Thank you received: 33
OR
If you can mount the hub on your guy's balancer, can you mount the hub with the wheel/tire attached? If you can, add required weights to the wheel to account for the combined imbalance and make sure you mount the wheel in the same position on the hub when everything is put back on the car.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Terry Cockerell
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Elite Forum User
-
Registered
- Posts: 1338
- Thank you received: 302
There are not many places where I live in Australia who can handle balancing the drums.
On a wheel balancing machine we found that one drum was out by 65 grams or about 2.7 ounces. Even the wheel balancing operator was surprised.
We added adhesive weights for the trial on the outside of the rim. These will be removed.
As the drums are composite with a cast iron rim and a steel flange I would assume we could only weld or bolt weights to the flange as long as they clear the wheel rim and brakes.
I would appreciate any comments or guidance as how to do this job properly.
I don't intend to drive the car much above 60 mph but where there is out of balance forces working I would rather eliminate them.
Thanks,
Terry Cockerell
T cockerell
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.