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Rear brake lockup

  • Dan DiTullio
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18 Feb 2005 12:03 #2874 by Dan DiTullio
Replied by Dan DiTullio on topic Rear Brake lockup
To all responders. The problem was solved last summer. It was brake fluid leaking out of the right rear wheel cylinder. I honed the offending cylinder and replaced the piston cups. The brakes behaved very well on our trip to Auburn last year aproxmimatly 1700 miles round trip.

Thank You;

Dan

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  • Al Hatch
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16 Feb 2005 17:39 #2862 by Al Hatch
Replied by Al Hatch on topic Rear brake lockup
Hi Dan,

I agree with the responses that have been posted. I expierenced collasped rubber brake hoses on an Auburn. Pressure builds up gradually to the point that the brakes begin dragging. Letting the car sit for 20 minutes or so, the pressure subsides to the point the brake shoes release. Upon startup and driving the car, the process starts all over.

New brake hoses are still available from Wagner, part #'s 4001 and 4002.

CORDially,

Al Hatch

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  • cbs
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15 Feb 2005 02:36 #2852 by cbs
Replied by cbs on topic Rear brake lockup
:) These cars have excellent brakes if everything's A-OK.

"An organization for the restoration and preservation of original Auburn Cord & Duesenberg automobiles" should allow priority over replicars if being in the park is important; Seems like there needs to be clarification by Meet Chairman on policy; (Reservation of the park for the day is the main reason I drive & participate yearly for a couple decades now). Don't want to exclude 866s, SAMCOs , Elites or 8/10ths, but certainly don't want to be denied seeing a real McCoy!

I certainly enjoy seeing unrestored cars on trailers, and am sure a few others do too since the crowds always seem to be examining them.

Maybe if the trailered car's uninsured there's a problem with liability?

Balancing the brakes is really important since these drum systems can be overly touchy if not set up right.

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  • Tom_Parkinson
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13 Feb 2005 18:36 #2847 by Tom_Parkinson
Replied by Tom_Parkinson on topic Brake Hose failure
I add my support to the suggestion about brake hose failure. My 37 Buick Roadmonster spontaneously developed a nasty habit of seizing up the right front wheel, accompanied by a distinct lack of other apparent braking effect at the other wheels, at the slightest touch of the brake pedal. <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: -->

Turns out that the rear hose and left front hose were closed with brake-hose-deterioration-plaque, and all the braking effort was being sent to the right front, which, btw, was none too healthy either.

A triple brake hose transplant operation with new hoses solved the problem. My LaSalle will get new hoses preventatively this Spring, and the Cord will get newbies when it is actually self-mobile.

-Tom Parkinson

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: mbcurl.me/YCSE

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  • balinwire
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11 Mar 2004 00:40 #1404 by balinwire
Replied by balinwire on topic lockups
It could be a collapsing hose that is easy to get at Napa, ask for #BH4900, also works on the front hoses.
If the drums have not been off in a while I would check all the moving parts and clean and replace each wheel cylinder seal also.

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  • Tom Georgeson
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10 Mar 2004 18:20 #1401 by Tom Georgeson
Replied by Tom Georgeson on topic Rear brake lockup
Dan,

My first thought is that it is your brake hose to the rear brakes. It's interior has failed. When you put pressure to the rear brakes it forces the interior back opening for a flow of brake fluid. When the pressure is off the interior collapses and blocks the flow of the brake fluid back to the master cylinder. This is assuming that the wheel cylinders have not built up with gunk and are will move freely.
Good luck and hope this fixes your problem.

Tom

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  • Dan DiTullio
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08 Mar 2004 17:21 #1387 by Dan DiTullio
Rear brake lockup was created by Dan DiTullio
As part of my off season upgrade, repair, and
&gt;correction effort I found that last year (once
&gt;in a while) when driving the Cord the rear
&gt;brakes would lock up and skid causing an
&gt;expensive loss of rubber from my new wide
&gt;Whitewall Goodyear radial tires. I have Bendix
&gt;brakes on the car both front and rear. The
&gt;front and rear wheel brake cylinder bore is
&gt;1 1/16" diameter. Is this correct? Another
&gt;club member said that I could install a brake
&gt;pressure regulator on the rear brake line to
&gt;cut back on the pressure. This to me seems to
&gt;be adding complexity to the system. What
&gt;should be the correct brake cylinder part
&gt;numbers and cylinder bores for the front and
&gt;rear brakes. I'm under the impression that the
&gt;rear cylinder bore should be smaller than the
&gt;front cylinder bore. Present cylinder part
&gt;numbers are left front #6089 and right rear is
&gt;1FD 2751.
&gt;
&gt;Thanks in advance.
Dan DiTullio

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