engine temperature reductions

  • balinwire
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05 Sep 2003 00:17 #740 by balinwire
balinwire created the topic: engine temperature reductions
Can anyone help me with ideas about the mercury thermostat bulb in the head?

It?s really unnerving wondering if things are overheating under the hood.

My sender bulb is missing at the cylinder head but the remaining lead to the indicator gauge is still intact and wound up in a coil behind the gauge.

I would like to get a bulb to indicator complete replacement, is this available anywhere?

Can a bulb be resoldered to the old line?

How are these usually repaired?

Is an electric gauge the only answer? I would really like to make a clean original type replacement.

Yours very truly, balin?

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  • Auburn/Cord Parts
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05 Sep 2003 17:07 #751 by Auburn/Cord Parts
Auburn/Cord Parts replied the topic: Re: Thermostat Needed
Balinwire-

This sensor bulb has to be reattatched under laboratory-like conditions. Usually, the bulb and entire line is replaced to the dash unit. This is a service we offer including replacing the colored fluid in the dash gauge and calibration.

Stan

Auburn/Cord Parts, Inc. P.O. Box 547 1400 N. "A" St. Wellington, KS 67152 (620) 326-7751 This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

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18 Sep 2003 00:42 #783 by balinwire
balinwire replied the topic: hotter than a pepper sprout
Not having a way to measure the coolant temperature I borrowed the meat thermometer from the kitchen drawer, <they won?t need it till turkey day> and the temperature of the coolant at the radiator filler started at 160. It moved to 180 after a few minutes. A few minutes later it was at 200 and boiling vigorously. I then shut it down to cool, I recored the radiator, checked the thermostats, very little vacuum leakage, good original carburetor, no leaks, and I am just stumped at how hot it runs. Could it be an accumulation of sediment in the block. Would that cause boiling? What is done to prevent boiling. It is timed perfectly and runs wonderful. It just boils after 10 minutes of running at an idle with the drive unit in first gear. Should a new radiator allow an FB to run at 160-180 degree range, is this possible? It is also difficult to start when warm. There is good flow in the radiator and the pump is fine.



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18 Sep 2003 16:06 #786 by balinwire
balinwire replied the topic: found problem
I removed left bank thermostat housing and found it clooged to intake manifold with some kind of substance. I cleaned and found more in the block that I am tring to flush out. Would it run cooler without the thermostats or is there some kind of dual circut flow? It should be fine now.

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20 Sep 2003 01:29 #792 by Tom_Parkinson
Tom_Parkinson replied the topic:
Balin--
I had similar experiences with my 40 LaSalle---it always overheated: high spped, low speed, cool day, hot day, in town, on toll road... I found that a previous owner had "repaired" a radiator leak with generous doses of Stop-Leak which literally packed the water banks around the cylinders with what approximated concrete. I chipped all that crud out and the old LaSalle runs cools as a cuke. Mayhap your Cord is similarly endowed. You'll have to take off a head to check for this.

Also from the experience file, I once was too lazy to install the radiator shroud around the fan in a 52 Willys Jeep. The thing boiled over constantly--until I put the shroud back in. Then it was fine. Perhaps you need to have a shroud made for your car; I am considering making one for mine. Just a thought...

----Tom

With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.

Editor-in-Chief, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International

See pix of 1509A here: http://mbcurl.me/YCSE

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21 Sep 2003 12:49 #797 by balinwire
balinwire replied the topic: Arteriosclerosis
Thank's Tom, I agree there must be crud in the block and I am going to add some block flush and remove hoses but I may have to remove the heads.

In an effort to lower engine temp I was reading the Cord factory service bulletin July 8, 1936 and in #3 there is a mention of the bypass.

There is no diagram of the flow pattern but it seems the thermostat reduces flow to the radiator when closed as usual but if it is removed the flow goes thru the pump even when hot. This is corrected by a ?round piece of metal? with a 1/16 in hole drilled in the top.

My question is, what is this piece of metal supposed to look like? Is it a flat disk? Is it a dowel? I could see how this could meter flow.

I would like to delete the thermostats, they do open correctly at 160-80 but there is very slow flow in the heads and block due to someone?s misintentioned efforts to add leak sealer and the residue may be clogging the block passages somewhat slowing flow and causing overheating.

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