1931 8-98 Cooling Update and still an issue

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08 Aug 2016 16:54 #31487 by curtiss
curtiss created the topic: 1931 8-98 Cooling Update and still an issue
OK, I have done a number of things thus far and still no success. Only a few left.

Done to date:
- Replaced aftermarket distributor with correct distributor.
- Adjusted timing
- Installed a 170 Thermostat (there was no thermostat when I got it)
- Flushed the cooling system
- Added some 40 Below Additive (this did nothing)

I noticed when I was running straight water the engine would run around 200 ish. As soon as I did a 50/50 mix and added the 40 Below the motor now runs 215 at idle. The top of the radiator has 215 going in and the bottom has 146 coming out.

The only things I have not been ale to test is the water pump flow and I have not had the radiator out for a true flow test but it seemed to be flowing fairly well when I had a hose in the top. The fluid came out clean even after the flush and looking for the thermostat hole it looked decent.

all of my recent test have been done at idle, when I rev the engine to get the fan moving it cools down about 5 degrees. It may cool down a bit on a drive but I have been scared to take it out running this warm.

Any ideas? I have thought about taking the water pump apart but have not found any good diagrams yet so I am not sure what I am getting into :)

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08 Aug 2016 20:45 #31488 by 1748 S
1748 S replied the topic: Re: 1931 8-98 Cooling Update and still an issue
Best I can suggest is do a combustion gas test of the coolant. Any good radiator shop can do that for you. That test tells you if there is combustion gas in the coolant and it indicates a cracked head, block of bad head gasket. At the very least it can tell you the head bolts may need torquing to proper ft lbs.. but please.. Do not simply try to tighten any head bolts. There is plenty of ideas about this. Some say it will do nothing because the bolts have set and to break them loose. then torque then down again. Others say you can't re torque them because the threads are dirty and the torque is not going to be correct. Re torquing head bolts is a learned by feel thing. Once you know what it feels like its an easy job one bolt at a time. It is an act of desperation.

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08 Aug 2016 22:43 #31490 by Ivor
Ivor replied the topic: Re: 1931 8-98 Cooling Update and still an issue
Hello Curtiss,
From your test results for temperature in and temperature out one thing stands out to me and that is the large differential. At 215 in and 146 out that is a differential of 69 degrees, at idle with the poor air flow available through the core this seem very high. To me this indicates the water flow through the radiator is far too slow. This might be due to a partially blocked core, a blockage or a badly corroded water pump impeller. A couple of tests you could do, with an infrared temp tester slowly scan across the radiator core and check for variations in temperature, another simple test for cooling system flow is to connect a tune up type vacuum gauge to the inlet side of the water pump and check if it is reading a high vacuum if it does it indicates poor core flow, this test is only useful if you know the water pump is in good condition and the thermostat is open. The water pump on mine has a plug on the inlet side and one on the outlet, the pump is also very basic and easy to dismantle. One other thing that sometimes happens is the hose from the radiator to the pump goes soft and collapses but this usually happens at high RPM on the highway, it should have a wire type coil spring in the hose to prevent this. Is your core honeycomb or modern cellular.

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09 Aug 2016 22:34 #31492 by ilikescars
ilikescars replied the topic: Re: 1931 8-98 Cooling Update and still an issue
My two cents: I had an overheating problem and it turned out to be "Stop Leak" that someone had poured into the radiator. I assume they were trying to fix a leak at the water jacket (it had cracked). I had to have the radiator disassembled and cleaned of all that gunky stop leak and also had to take the side plate off the engine and wash out a bunch of that gunky product.
Mark

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13 Aug 2016 03:08 #31517 by mikespeed35
mikespeed35 replied the topic: Re: 1931 8-98 Cooling Update and still an issue
You may be making your own problem here. The way I understand your tests are at idle. A motor does its best cooling going down the road with air moving through the radiator and the water pump turning at operating speed, not at idle. If a car stops at a long traffic light or for a long train it will heat up. Drive your car down the road. The worst that will happened is you will have to pull over, shut it off and wait for it to cool down. Then you may learn more that will help solve the problem. There usually is about a 25 or 30 degree difference between inlet and outlet temp. in a radiator. The large differentiation you have suggests the water is not circulating fast enough, or at all, staying in the block and radiator way too long. Is the water pump shaft turning and the impeller is not? Is the impeller free wheeling on the shaft. There should be much water movement when looking into the radiator fill when the motor is running. I am not familiar with the 8-98 water pump but is it possible to drain the coolant, remove a hose so the impeller is visible and momentarily start the motor and visibly see if the impeller is turning? Hope some of this rambling helps.
Cordially Mike

Mike Huffman

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13 Aug 2016 03:42 #31518 by johnmereness
johnmereness replied the topic: Re: 1931 8-98 Cooling Update and still an issue
Any chance the lower radiator hose is collapsing via not having a wire in it (I agree that it is often a problem and I agree it is usually a problem at speed verses idle) ?
Is the water pump impeller any good or slipping on the shaft ?
Does it have a decent water distribution tube in the block (I assume a 1931 has one)?
Timing ?
Are you running it too lean ?
I am a big fan of drilling an 1/8 or so hole in a thermostat (eliminates air pockets and ...)
Could it just be a really tight engine and need some careful driving around the block for 1000 miles ?
Heat riser valve in manifold is closed or someone did their own thing building exhaust or full of nuts or .... via mice ?

Saw the video you posted of driving the car.

I will always recall the 36 Cadillac 75 Series Town Cabriolet - it was overheating and everyone seemed puzzled - some how the radiator was sent out and the shop painted it black though forgot to clean it out (I would say it had 10 percent flow).

JMM

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