removing screws on cylinder inlet water plate

  • Ken Neill
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25 Aug 2004 14:12 #2116 by Ken Neill
Ken Neill created the topic: removing screws on cylinder inlet water plate
Is there anyone out there who would wish to offer any suggestions on procecures to remove the screws on the Auburn inlet water plate, short of drilling them out and helicoiling the holes so standard screws can be used? I have soaked these for quite a while and most of them are still frozen. I am reluctant to use any great amount of heat on them becase the block casting is rather thin in this area.

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  • Al Hatch
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25 Aug 2004 16:28 #2117 by Al Hatch
Al Hatch replied the topic:
Ken,

You might have to resort to using heat to get them out but here is a 'trick' that works extremely well for removing frozen bolts. Buy some bees wax from a good local hardware store. Heat the bolts up with a propane torch (which should not overheat the block). Once you have heated the bolt (should be free of paint) apply the bees was directly on the bolt. The heat draws the wax right down onto the threads and once that happens the bolt will come out with little effort.

I have witnessed this many times and it still amazes me how well it works. For the life of me, I don't know who comes up with this ideas but sure am glad that there are people who 'think out of the box'.

Let me know if this works for you.

CORDially,

Al Hatch

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  • Ken Neill
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25 Aug 2004 19:36 #2120 by Ken Neill
Ken Neill replied the topic: removing screws on cylinder water inlet plate
Thanks very much for this information Al. Right after I posted the request for suggestions on this I tried again to loosen them and to my amazement 32 of them came out rather easily. This was after about five weeks fooling around with them and soaking them almost every day. The bad news however is that two of them broke. But I am going to see if easy outs work on those-- and I will use the bees wax method. Thanks again, Ken

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26 Aug 2004 00:32 #2122 by Ray Parker
Ray Parker replied the topic: Water Distribution Plate
Hi Ken: If you have broken two of the screws you will probably have to drill them and use an easy-out. Those screws should be brass -- original ones were brass so they did not freeze in the block. If you need a couple, email me and I will send you some.

Hope all goes well!
Ray Parker

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  • Ken Neill
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26 Aug 2004 03:21 #2123 by Ken Neill
Ken Neill replied the topic: water inlet plate
Thank you very much Ray. It looks like mine were replaced with some steel screws. The ones that snapped were mild steel hex heads. I am going to drill them out as soon as I get some tools togeather, such as the right size center punch and easy out. On my Auburn I had several years ago I had to helicoil them. Thanks again! Ken

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  • Auburn/Cord Parts
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26 Aug 2004 16:36 #2127 by Auburn/Cord Parts
Auburn/Cord Parts replied the topic: Water Jacket Screws
Sorry guys, original fasteners were #SH-404 1/2, zinc coated steel, slotted, round head, 1/4 - 28. They squeezed a copper asbestos seal washer (gasket) to secure the water jacket cover on all Auburn engines 1928-36. We suggest a combination antisieze sealant like teflon paste so you can remove them in the future. It's easier to just drill and retap to start with. We usually don't try to unscrew any. This is the sort of information that the judging manual would help with!

Stan

PS - Candle wax will usually work better than bees wax and those reverse drill bits also work well if you decide to use them.

Auburn/Cord Parts, Inc. P.O. Box 547 1400 N. "A" St. Wellington, KS 67152 (620) 326-7751 This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

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