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Time to Rebuild
- Neal Ziff
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If anyone has an "extra" one of these - please contact me as soon as possible. Or, if you have one available that you can photograph and provide pertinent measurements I can fabricate. Once I have this part I am only a couple of days for final assembly, and then installation back into the car. I've rebuilt or re-worked all other ancillary items and am anxious to see if I can get the car back in service in time to enjoy the West Coast Meet tour.
Thanks for the help,
Neal
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- mikespeed35
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- Neal Ziff
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Now it's time to work on some of these tables full of parts.
Thanks again for all the advice and support. Keep it coming.
Happy New Year,
Neal
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- mikespeed35
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- 1748 S
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- auburnandyscar
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Those stuck exhaust bolts will be the least of your worries.
I built an engine stand at the shop for the Museum specifically for doing Auburn 8's after we (briefly) tried to use a common/modern stand.
Conversely, I also have a purpose built stand at my place for V12's :rolleyes: As much of a PITA it seems to build one, having a nice, safe,solid platform to work on and with is worth the effort.
At the Museum we bolted the 1931 engine to a plate on the stand using the studs that attach the bellhousing to the block. they are 7/16-20 as I recall.
(not sure what the 1930 block uses) [/b]
Check out my build at:
www.1932auburnsedan.com
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- mikespeed35
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- Neal Ziff
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Also, having some difficulty removing the exhaust manifolds. I've been squirting them with PB hoping it would do the trick with a couple of raps of the hammer. No such luck yet - don't want to do any damage.
Neal
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- curt
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I have to agree with both Joel & Mike-- remove everything you can easily while the motor is still in the car. Carbs, Manifold, distributors, wire covers, generator, starters etc have a horrible habit of hanging up in ways you didn't think possible. This will damage the accessory itself, damage what it hangs up on or, normally, both. Also, if you have doubts about how to put everything back together, take LOTS of pictures.
Hopefully, we will see you at next years WCM with your car once again!
Curt Warner
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- 1748 S
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- Neal Ziff
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Love the pictures of your car. Happy Holidays!
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- Neal Ziff
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Happy Holidays,
Neal
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- JOEL GIVNER
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I have pulled engines both with the trans and without for the early Auburns.
Its easier, as Mike suggested, to pull without trans. Remove floor boards, disconnect driveshaft, remove trans mounting bolts, pull back and remove along with the emergency brake.
Joel
JEG
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- Curt Schulze
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We have a 30 year old wood stove in the basement that I needed to remove the door to replenish the insulation rope. The bolts and nuts were so rusty that the hex's rounded off and the area was too tight for a vice grip or a hacksaw. I brought my little 'junk-yard' acetylene torch down, went out side and got a snowball heated the bolt and nut up cherry red and promptly applied said snowball. The nuts spun right off. This works MUCH better than just heating the nut.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- Neal Ziff
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Pretty much ready to pull now. Don't be shy with suggestions - they really help. Especially when you've never done this before. Will send another pic when out.
Neal
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- Neal Ziff
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Neal
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- Neal Ziff
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After almost 85 years I think it's time to breathe some new life into this engine so I can keep driving my '30 8-95. I'm not experienced so I plan to pull it and have it done, but the tips I've received over the years from everyone have helped me overcome, and more often avoid, problems. So here are a couple of pics as I've gotten started. Please feel free to give me your 2 cents.
One problem I'm having right now is removing the headlight bar. I've gotten the nuts loose on the brackets, but they only want to back off so far before they get tight and start to move the bolts. The bolts don't have a square securing base (like a stove head), but rather a knurled ring around the neck, so I'm not sure the best way to keep them from spinning so I can remove them. It was suggested that I tighten the nuts back up and then run a die over the ends of the bolts to clean them up as close as possible to the nuts. I've done this and was successful on 2 of the 8. I'll keep squirting PB Blaster on them and trying - I'm hoping to avoid having to split the nuts. Any other ideas?
Also, I plan to keep the car "original, un-restored". As I go through this rebuild process I want to make sure I don't compromise this status. Any help identifying what I can and cannot do would be appreciated.
Happy Holidays,
Neal
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