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Auburn 8-98 Phaeton Sedan restoration story
- 61xlch
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jwdp31357 wrote: Hi Andreas - very nice car and restoration well done.
Can I please ask what Black colour you used. I would like to do my 29 Phaeton in a similar black. It really looks stunning.
Cheers
Jason
Melbourne, Australia
Jason,
its a simple plain black (RAL 9005), and its Nitrocellulose-based.
Andreas
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- jwdp31357
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Can I please ask what Black colour you used. I would like to do my 29 Phaeton in a similar black. It really looks stunning.
Cheers
Jason
Melbourne, Australia
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- jhcarlady
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jhcarlady/
Joan Huffman
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- mikespeed35
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- 61xlch
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mikespeed35 wrote: When you come bring your car and drive it. You will never regret it.
CORDially Mike
I would love to do so, but unfortunatly this will not be possible.
A cross country trip with my family (I have to daughters in the age 10 and 13) within a limited time of max. 3 weeks and with a 1931 car?
This will not be fun at all. And its a question of money too...
Possibly later, after retirement?
BTW: I like the pictures of your car travels very much. Thanks for sharing.
Andy
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- mikespeed35
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- 61xlch
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Its been possible only with the help of you fellows, with your advise and your parts. A big thank to all of you who helped me.
Possibly in 2015 or 2016 I plan a visit to USA incl. a cross country round trip. Hopefully I will have the opportunity to meet some of you, talking about the cars and having a beer together.
Cheers
Andy
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- RandyEma
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- Greg Frownfelter
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- JOEL GIVNER
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Wonderful job or I should say "FABULOUS". The Auburn looks way better than the simulated picture.
Enjoy. After all the hard work, you deserve it.
Joel
JEG
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- Tom_Parkinson
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STUNNING !!!!!!!!!!!!
--Tom
With brakes, two cylinders are better than one.
Editor-in-Chief Emeritus, The Hardtop News Magazine, the Journal of the Michiana Dunes Region, Lambda Car Club International
See pix of 1509A here: mbcurl.me/YCSE
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- 61xlch
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Here is picture of the car before the restoration, next picture is my imagination made by Photo Shop, and the last picture is the reality today.
Pretty close, huh?
All I have to do now is refilling the King Sealey gas gauge and oil gauge. Anybody has a good advise for doing this? Hard to imagine how to fill the small glas tubes behind the dash panels....?
And some minor touch ups here and there.
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- samsonized
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- 61xlch
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- samsonized
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- Mike Dube
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Mike
8-100A
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- pfree3233
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You have done a beautiful job on the car, you should be very proud. I'm sure you will get many years of enjoyment from it.
Pat
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- 61xlch
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its becoming to be a car again! In reality it looks much better then at the pictures!!! I would like to sit by the the car and stare at it. It is such a beautyful car, I love it...
On Monday the pinstriper will finish the fenders, and next week the saddler starts working at the convertible top cover and door panels. Hopefully in June it should be finished.
There are still the "old spare wheels" installed.
Cheers
Andreas
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- mikespeed35
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- 61xlch
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samsonized wrote: not trying to be personal but have you kept track of the expenditure of doing your project. I have a phaeton project that needs to be redone and I was wondering about how much a restoration like yours is costing
No, I didn?t. Its been much more expensive than expected, as always with restorations. And I did not start with the intention of a complete restoration. At the beginning I was thinking about a paint job and some minor body repairs.
And there is one more difference: Buying a part and having it shipped to Germany is much more expensive than within US.
And last but not least I did not count the hours of labour, which has been accomplished by employees of my car repair business and of my own.
If I would have been forced to sell the car after finsihing, I would have a big financial loss.
Thatswhy please don?t ask again.....
<!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->
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- samsonized
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- 61xlch
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No, I wan?t drive it that way.
But when other people without a clue saw the car without fenders, they always asked me, if it is going to be a HotRod.... <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
Cheers
Andreas
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- mikespeed35
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- 61xlch
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www.vidup.de/v/xxPNI/
Still no idle, but it runs. Meanwhile at the saddler...
As you have seen, in Europe everything is much smaller, also the workshops. :rolleyes:
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- Mike Dube
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- 61xlch
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Mike Dube wrote:
It appears that your copper fuel line is a straight shot from the pump to the carb. Unless that temporary hose is hiding it, you might want to coil the fuel line to prevent a vibration stress fracture.
This copper line is made of pretty hard copper tube, too hard to bend and we were not able to make a clean loop. Probably I will have to purchase soft copper tube and do it again.
Because of fuel pump and carb are both mounted to the engine housing I did not see any problems. I always thought loops are only necessary when I make a connection between frame and engine?
Thanks
Andreas
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- Mike Dube
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Glad to see she's nearing completion, you have worked long & hard.
It appears that your copper fuel line is a straight shot from the pump to the carb. Unless that temporary hose is hiding it, you might want to coil the fuel line to prevent a vibration stress fracture.
Mike
8-100A
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- 61xlch
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Now we are going to install fuel and vacuum lines. Next job will be Pin Striping of body and doors, then the car will be delivered to the saddler.
In April or May hopefully follows the final assembly: fenders, lights, chrome trim, ...
These are my plans. But as always with restorations: everything takes longer than expected and will be much more expensiv than expected. :rolleyes:
The paint job is accomplished with Nitrocellulose laquer. Its terrible. It tooks 10 times more time compared to modern laquer. Never again! The painter is squeezing me out like a lemon and is still not satisfied with the payment. <!-- s:cry: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cry.gif" alt="" title="Crying or Very sad" /><!-- s:cry: -->
But there is no way back. The result counts.
Cheers
Andreas
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- ilikescars
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- gnutting
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At one point you mentioned a Carmine red color that looked brown. I have a set of old color chips for 1929-32 Auburn and Cord, Acme brand paint. I?m looking at the chip for Carmine red. It?s darker than the reds we often see on modern restorations, but nothing brown in its appearance. The mixing formula on the back of the chip is: 16 parts Vermilion (I think we know what that must have been, a pure red) and 10 parts Maroon no. 809. I don?t know what no. 809 Maroon was like, but we can infer from the mixing formulas for two other chips--1929 Auburn Toga maroon (1 quart Madder maroon, 3 oz jet black, 1 oz tinting umber) and 1932 Auburn-Cord maroon (16 oz maroon no. 809, 3 oz black, ? oz orange). Both the maroon chips are very, very dark, so tinting Maroon no. 809 must have been quite dark as well. By the standard of these chips, what we think call maroon in modern paints is really a dark red.
Some will say that old color chips fade or change. I would not argue against that, but it is better to have some information than none at all. I?ve had experience comparing old paints chips for the same early 1930s colors from different companies (tho they were Packard color chips, not Auburn). They were quite close, which suggests that deterioration in well preserved chips does not make them unreliable as guides to colors, even tho you might not trust them for, say, computer matching.
I think the previous owner of my 8-98A strove for the authentic Auburn combination of Toga maroon and Carmine, and he got the distributions of the colors mostly right, for all of which I am grateful. I think he got the colors a bit too light and bright, judging from my old Acme paint chips, but the thought was there.
The evidence from my Acme chip says no brown in Auburn Carmine. Perhaps you have a layer of red/brown primer someone put on for an old repaint?
Jack Triplett
1931 Auburn 898A speedster
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- Mike Dube
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For what it's worth, I run one of those cans with the replaceable element too. It might cost a point or two at an ACD judging meet, but a lot easier to deal with. I personally don't change the element with every oil change, but I do I use an vacuum extractor to get all the oil from the can.
Obviously with a re-newed engine, you'll change the filter @ the 1st oil change.
The car is coming along nicely.
Mike
Mike
8-100A
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- 61xlch
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Thanks, Matt, thats the missing link. Sorry Brad, should have read your post carefully.
Will watch out for this housing.
Best
Andreas
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- landmark
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- 61xlch
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Brad, the filters you mentioned are filter inserts.
The filters I have are one piece throw away filters, no separate housing can. These filters I found only as NOS for about 50,- per filter. And I wonder if the filter paper inside would be still intact?
I would like to have a housing can with separate filter inserts as f.i. Purolator L20700.
Does anybody know where to fnd such a filter housing?
Andreas
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- Brad Hoskins
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Not sure about Germany but a new filter element for these ( NE-1517 stamped on lid) is still readily available in North America. Just picked up two at my local auto parts store.
Purolator L20700
Fram C143PL
Wix 51071
Does anyone know what colour the housing is supposed to be? As I understand it, these are aftermarket to the original disposable EF 1/2 which was black.
I have an original NE-1517 filter housing with the decal still on it which is a copper colour. Did Purolator customise it by marque? Or did it depend on the year the 'can' was produced?
I've also seen them painted 'Fram' orange.
Brad
31 8-98 cabriolet
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- 61xlch
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I wonder if these NOS throw away filters are still effective. I would like to convert to another filter housing with changeable filter inserts. Its gonna be a driver, not a trailer queen.
Any recommandations regarding the filter conversion?
Cheers
Andy
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- Curt Schulze
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The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Be of Good Cheer
Curt
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- 61xlch
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auburnandyscar wrote: Does your machinist find the U.S. dimensions confusing?
(I just spent half an hour converting metric to 'standard' is why I asked) <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->
Since I?m in old Harleys and US vintage cars since more than 20 years I am meanwhile pretty familiar with US dimensions. I always convert everything for other people involved in my business. <!-- s8) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s8) -->
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- auburnandyscar
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(I just spent half an hour converting metric to 'standard' is why I asked) <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt="" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->
Check out my build at:
www.1932auburnsedan.com
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- 61xlch
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While assembling the engine, another problem came to light:
At first I received wrong oil rings from Egge Machine Co., too small. Then I received new rings, this time correct width, but now too deep. Finally I hat to rework the ring grooves at the new pistons. Now everything is fine (hopefully)....
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- 61xlch
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The diff is carefully adjusted, outer wheel bearing races and pinion bearing races are locked by Loctite, because of worn bearing seats.
The shift rod for the Overdrive plunger was missing, because the two speed axle was fixed in second gear. I had to made a new one and hopefully now will be able to shift it up and down.
The tranny made some problems again. After finding other gears I had now the choice of 3 different countershaft gears: my old worn part, second a good part with one broken tooth, Laser welded and manual regrinded, and third a very good used part from a Club fellow.
Unfortunatly the best (3rd) part is a little bit different, its slghtly longer and 2 gears are slightly smaller and not in line. See pics:
Does anybody know why this is different? The number of teeth and outside diameter is the same, just the width and position of two gears is different.
I am gonna shorten the countershaft gears, because this is the best part.
A new new shaft will be made too.
Cheers
Andy
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- 61xlch
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Beginning with the front axle....
.... another new problem occured. Apparantly my car was been equipped with two LH front shock absorbers. The RH shock absorber must have been installed upside down :rolleyes:
Ok, first we pulled the lever arm tried to convert one of the LH absorbers to a RH absorber. No problem, it worked well. Next we pulled the valves and swapped front and rear valve. (BTW: Both shock absorbers are oiltight in perfect shape inside and outside.)
Finally the conversation didn?t work, because there is an oil return line with the adjusting screw in the absorber body, which can not be changed. You can see this adjusting screw at the bottom of the shocks:
Anyway, I am looking now for a RH Front Shock Absorber in very good condition. If needed I can offer a LH absorber as exchange.
Regards
Andy
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- 61xlch
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Unfortunatly I am still absorbed by my business too much. The body shell is painted in Nitrocellulose, without accents, the other body parts are primered. Chrome parts are chromed...everything waiting for assembly.
Normally in fall business is going down, giving me time for my private stuff, but this year still not. :rolleyes:
But, after the fire disaster and with the help of Dave Kirchenbauer, meanwhile I have a set of 6 other wheels, new laced with new spokes and aligned.
When it moves on I will keep you posted. I will try to get it finished until spring!!!!
In the pictures you see the old upholstery, just as a sample for the saddler.
In this picture you can see a sample plate for the accent color and the top fabric. But because of the camera flash both colors are looking far too bright in this picture! The accents will be brown red, exactly as original, ant the top will be tan.
Regards
Andreas
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- Justin Kerns
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Just wondering if you have any updates? I'm really enjoying seeing your progress on this.
Justin
Justin
1932 Auburn 12-160A Sedan
1933 Auburn 12-161A Sedan
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- 61xlch
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Too much business these days, probably it will have to wait until fall.
The body makes some progress, not far away from painting.
Doors and wood are finished:
Right now everything is going to be assembled for final straightening and fitting.
In July the body will be painted, the fenders and front end later after assembling engine and stuff.
I am looking forward to it....
Andreas
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- johnmereness
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JMM
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